Something special
Dandelion, Apdikt, best 16th arr restaurants, 13th arr listings, Vinello, The Great Frog, MORE
RESTAURANTS • First Word
Dandelion wine
The Skinny: When Antoine Villard wrote his last assignment at prestigious cookery school Ferrandi, it was about one day opening a restaurant in the 20th arrondissement. After hunkering down here for the pandemic, and hanging out with friends in the neighborhood even longer, Villard finally opened Dandelion with sommelier Morgane Souris last summer.
The Vibe: Villard and Souris picked a century-old neighborhood bistro on rue des Vignoles and decorated it with help from Souris’s architect friend to create their own modern version. The laid-back, undone styling — unfinished walls, exposed brick painted white, simple dark wood furnishings — is cool but not pretentious, and rather romantic when lit by the evening candles.
The Food: Villard has plenty of experience in tasting menus and fine dining (Septime, Restaurant Guy Savoy) but at Dandelion, he’s gone à la carte with a reassuringly tight menu of just four starters and four mains. It’s mostly a contemporary take on French cuisine, exhibited in Villard’s deft use of sauces that add a kick to seasonal ingredients. Asian influences from his time at Double Dragon are also at play. Sweetbreads with a satay and shrimp jus, Meyer lemon, and chilli pepper are a good example of all of the above coming together on the plate. Homemade cavatelli with cavolo nero, Cantabrian anchovies, and taggiasca olives also introduce a bit of the Mediterranean. Desserts are fancier reinterpretations of more down-to-earth French favorites. We couldn’t choose between the old-fashioned café Liégeois and the “chou” version of a tarte Tropézienne, but with only two sweets on the menu, Dandelion makes it easy: get one of each and share.
The Drink: Having found her passion for wine at Parcelles, Souris has put together an excellent list of natural and classic bottles, though there’s also a very good dirty martini (among other cocktails) to get things started.
The Verdict: This elegant neo-bistro is refined enough for special occasions, but shouldn't be saved for them — it's too good to wait until one comes around. With tables booked up two months in advance, reserve now and make whatever evening you manage to get into something special. –Nicola Leigh Stewart
→ Dandelion (20th arr) • 46 Rue des Vignoles • Tue-Thu 19h15-22h30, Fri-Sat 12h-15h, 19h15-10h30 • Book.
PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton collection was worth the wait • A great meal at the small-plate plentiful Magnolia in the 9th • On the pleasures of Parisian restaurants, old and new • Beyoncé wraps European leg of Cowboy Carter tour with surprises at Stade de France finale.
RESTAURANTS • The Nines
Restaurants, 16th arr
The Nines are FOUND's distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.
Bistro Paul Chene, classic tiny bistro, huge summer patio, chalkboard menu, great steak frites
Paul Chene de la Mer, brand new seafood-centric riff on French bistro sister restaurant located steps away
Little Bamboo, vibey modern Thai offshoot of fashion district hit Bamboo, flavor-packed dishes, excellent cocktails
Astrance, fun, approachable modernist cooking in contemporary space
Marzo, great wood-fired pizzas and several pastas, second location of Left Bank original
Le Paris Seize, red checkered tablecloths, friendly service, some of best tartare de boeuf around
Le Petit Retro, lovely classic bistro, profiteroles highlight the menu
Maison Revka (above), opulent, loud Russian-themed bar and restaurant, outstanding outdoor dining in summer, plus brunch w/ caviar tasting
Attabler, gastronomique restaurant where classic dishes get modern touch, friendly and approachable service
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three properties currently on offer in the 13th arr:
→ Salpêtrière/Les Gobelins (metro Les Gobelins) • 5BR/3BA, 144 m2 • Ask: 1.75M € • 2nd-floor apartment with wood floors and ample light, plus 2 cellars • Annual property taxes: 1923 €; annual maintenance/condo fees: 2400 € • Agent: Delphine Mangiameli, Daniel Feau.
→ Ave des Gobelins/Place d’Italie (metro Les Gobelins) • 4BR/3BA, 194 m2 • Ask: 2.95M € • new construction 3-story home at rear of condo, with roof terrace • Annual property taxes: NA; annual maintenance/condo fees: 2400 € • Agent: Véronique Dejean, Barnes.
→ Butte-aux-Cailles (metro Corvisart, above) • 5BR/2BA, 205 m2 • Ask: 2.75M € • 4-story house with rooftop terrace including summer kitchen • Annual property taxes: NA; annual maintenance/condo fees: NA • Agent: Maison Rignault, JamesEdition.
WORK • Friday Routine
Expert remix
ANGELO FORTE • head bartender • Mandarin Oriental Lutetia, Paris
Neighborhood you live in: 20th arr
Neighborhood you work in: Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 6th arr
It’s Friday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
Friday afternoons are always different depending on the time of year (and especially, the pace of the hotel). During "normal" periods, once I arrive at work, I spend the first part of the afternoon in the office catching up on emails. Then, I move on to the lab where I’m experimenting with new drink ideas. Finally, I check in with my team to ensure the bar mise en place is on track before the shift starts.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I love trying new restaurants, but there are a couple of places I always return to because they feel like home. I highly recommend Vinello in the 17th for contemporary Italian cuisine, and Adraba by my friend Davide, which offers Israeli dishes just a stone's throw from Montmartre.
How about a little leisure or culture?
I’m a big fan of music, especially rock. Paris has so many great concert opportunities, especially during the summer, like Rock en Seine. If you’re into a more underground scene, I’d recommend checking out Supersonic — it’s open every day. When the weather’s nice, I love visiting the Seine or spending time in parks like Buttes-Chaumont or Bois de Vincennes.
Any weekend getaways?
For weekend getaways, my favorite cities are London and Amsterdam. In London, I’m all about exploring new mixology trends, so a bar tour is a must. And I can’t miss a visit to my favorite jewelry store, The Great Frog. Amsterdam, on the other hand, is perfect for just relaxing and wandering along the canals but some of my favorite addresses are the speakeasy Door 74, Flying Dutchman Cocktails, Bar The Tailor, Bourbon Street for live music, and the restaurant Kaagman & Kortekass.
What was your last great vacation?
My last big vacation was back in 2018 when I visited Los Angeles. It feels like a lifetime ago now, but it was an unforgettable trip. Some of my favorite places were Echo Park, Venice Beach, and Malibu and for bars and restaurants The Slipper Clutch, Bar Jackalope, and Sugarfish.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
A plane ticket to visit my dream country — Japan. I can’t wait to experience the culture and take in the amazing food and mixology scene. Some places on my list to visit are Tapas Molécular Bar, Yama, Zoetrope, and BenFiddich.
What store or service do you always recommend?
I love visiting Curiositas, a cabinet of curiosities in Montmartre. They have the most unique finds. I’m also a fan of T-BIRD for vintage clothing. For vinyl lovers, I always go to Rock’n Roll Voltage in the 4th.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Guitars Optional
Django Reinhardt Festival • Prairie du Bois d'Hyver (Fontainebleau) • Thu-Sun • 4-day pass, 140 € per
Lucas Sestak Trio • Jazz at the Castle • Château d'Auvers (Auvers-sur-Oise) • Sat @ 21h30 • cat 1, 42 € per
Melody Gardot • Olympia Paris (9th arr) • Thu 03/07 @ 20h • cat 3, 79.5 € per
GETAWAYS • Luxembourg
Lingering riot
The Skinny: Housed in the village’s former pharmacy, Apdikt is part old-world apothecary, part contemporary sanctuary — a space where every detail hums with quiet intent. The spirit of Hippocrates is literally etched into the glass: “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.”
The Vibe: An open kitchen offers a view of chef Mathieu Van Wetteren — or “captain,” as he calls himself — sailing towards the season’s prime produce, indie rock at his sails. “Lisztomania” by Phoenix is on the stereo, and I’m 15 again, seated at the white tablecloth, waiting for the riot to come.
The room is dimly lit textural, serious, but unpretentious. There are rough limewashed walls, soft tiles, and a striking black wood bar anchored by a green Bankers lamp. Large jars labeled with plant names in sober gothic script dot the space, evoking a potion workshop that just happens to serve impeccable food. Up a flight of stairs, the toilets are surrealist plunge pools of sorts — tiled in deep aquatic greens, with tattoo-style illustrations and playful nods to the chef’s world. The table is set with intention, but I won’t spoil it — its progression is part of the curated experience.
The Food: Each course of the tasting menu delivers impact with precision, never overpowering. It’s the rhythm of perfectly tuned drums: deep, expansive, immersive. One dish mirrors Phoenix’s outpouring of emotions, a chawanmushi with kombu and roasted scallops dashi, bbq peas, topped with sake-marinated salmon roe and a wild garlic oil. So clear in its flavors and balance, I almost didn’t want to take another bite so the moment wouldn’t end.
The stuffed morel, filled with brandade mousse, veiled in a hazelnut foam and a wild garlic jus, is all umami and forest — dark and light in one bite. Chef Mathieu breaks my heart a little, as I don’t see bread on the horizon. I could glide on the jus; surprisingly the vessel makes it very spoonable. The pieces are brought back together as the next dish comes with a shiny saucepan left tableside, accompanied (of course) by a thick-crusted bread.
Desserts follow the same principle: full-bodied but never heavy. A truffle ice cream with Isigny chantilly, caramel of topinambour, and sablé crumble is decadent but focused. An ice cream sandwich — gaufrette, pickled plum marmalade, crushed nuts — is the kind of bite that keeps you silent. One might expect a pharmaceutical coolness, a detached precision, but the plates are incredibly generous in taste and texture. Comforting, yet striking. Think less, but see it grow.
The Drink: The wine pairing is revelatory. As a somm myself, it’s the first time I truly understood how magical a perfect pairing can be — a complete experience. Each sip of the vinho verde accompanying the briny scallop carpaccio takes you deeper: you're not at the table anymore, you're at the criée with an oyster still on your tongue. The wine journey is deeply considered — an off-the-beaten-path Côtes du Rhône blanc from Elodie Jaume, a 2019 Merlot from Bordeaux, L’Étoile du Temps, closes the meal with the pigeon — round, earthy, and exactly what the name suggests: a bit timeless, and a rare Banyuls blanc from the far south of Roussillon. Every sip matched to a moment. There’s no non-alcoholic pairing, but a marigold kombucha from Belgian maker Rish fills the gap with grace.
The Verdict: Apdikt doesn’t shout — it murmurs, it simmers, it lingers. A house of precision, generosity, and slow-blooming wonder. You leave full but not heavy, senses sharpened, palate grateful, and already plotting your return. Like a riot — inspiring. –Candice Chemel
→ Apdikt (Luxembourg) • 1 rue des Martyrs • Tue-Sat 19h-22h • Book.
GETAWAYS LINKS: Air France adding new CDG-PUJ (Punta Cana) flights next winter • On the Côte d’Azur, a makeover for Le Beauvallon, reopening next year • Appreciating Hyères, a town with everything except crowds • Checking into the modernist new Standard Hotel in Brussels • Introducing Nobu Krakow • Morocco’s chicest boutique is Moro.
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