GETAWAYS • Lyon
When I learnt that the busy Brasserie Theodore was sold to Tabata and Ludovic Mey, who wanted this space for their new culinary showcase — a gastronomic restaurant attached to a brasserie — I envisioned a silent tremor in Lyon’s 6th arrondissement. The resulting restaurant, Ombellule, born a year after the Mey couple closed their widely applauded first table Les Apothicaires, does prove it is possible to shake up the traditional in the world capital of gastronomy.
On a recent visit, duality was everywhere. The place is beautiful, with an architecture reminiscent of the historic Maisons Lyonnaises and an embrace of the traditional high-end gastronomic codes (white tablecloth, Christofle silverware, Bernardaud argenterie). But some artistic touches — poems on the menu; art on the wall from Galatée Martin — quickly warm the ambiance before the chefs themselves invite every table in the kitchen, during their preparation of the amuse-bouche.
The food is also rooted in duality. The eclosion menu in nine services would not have been disowned by Lyon’s culinary masters with its traditional products: seasonal asparagus in three textures, scallops and roasted lotte, braised beef from Boucherie Lyonnaise. But the heritage is reborn with the aromatic seasoning sublimating each ingredient. There’s no traditional Lyonnaise heavy cream here. Instead, herbs and flower scents soften the peas, while a ginger marinade gives a gentle kick to the asparagus. I barely remember what came after the razor clams, because I still think of its zesty oil extracted from lime leaves.
The duplexity continues through dessert, a Valrhona chocolate variation topped with fresh mushrooms for the most fabulous praliné I’ve tasted since that iconic cream mousse from Maxime Bouttier (at Géosmine in Paris). There’s lively paradox on the drinks too — the wine list showcases the historic, prestigious Côte Rotie through young talented producers, before a Chartreuse chariot makes its way with the mignardises, a delightful turn on the traditional liqueurs selection.
Word of mouth travels fast, and this maison fills quickly. But I will come back to explore the adjacent Brasserie Roseaux, expecting more edge on the Lyonnaise classics. –Marine White
→ Ombellule (Lyon) • 36 Cr Franklin Roosevelt • Mon 12-1330h, 1945h-2045h, Tue 1945-2045, Wed 12-1330h, 19h45-20h45, Thu 12h-13h30, 19h45-20h45, Fri 12h-13h30, 19h45-20h45, Book.