Rare vintage
Best croissants in Paris, Christophe Louie, Oenosteria, 20th arr properties, Superstich MFG, J.M. Weston, Gogol Bordello, Vineria Vitani, MORE
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three properties currently on offer in Ménilmontant/Belleville in the 20th arr:
→ Jourdain (metro Jourdain, above) • 3BR/1BA, 189 m2 • Ask: 1.4M € • funky duplex loft in old shoe manufacturer’s workshop dating from 1834 • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 3600 € • Agent: Sophie Neama, Barnes.
→ Belleville (metro Ménilmontant) • 3BR/3BA, 188 m2 • Ask: 1.65M € • freshly renovated duplex loft with terrace • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 2338 € • Agent: Karen Schoemaker, Engel & Völkers.
→ Heart of the 20th (metro Jourdain) • 4BR/5BA, 370 m2 • Ask: 2.95M € • 3-floor house with hammam and wine cellar, plus multiple terraces • Annual maintenance/condo fees: N/A • Agent: Peter Kalb, Engel & Völkers.
WORK • Friday Routine
Knee deep
ARTHUR LECLERC • founder • Superstitch MFG
Neighborhood you work and live in: 6th arr
It’s Friday morning. How are you rolling into the weekend?
Superstitch runs Tuesday to Saturday, so my weekend starts a day later than most. OnSaturday afternoons, often the busiest day of the week, the boutique is buzzing with activity: clients pack themselves into the workshop at 13 rue Racine, trying on our artisanal Japan-made line of denim products, or arriving for their made-to-order fittings. In the background is the steady hum of our rare vintage sewing machines, as we hem jeans cut to measure, or work on garments for the exclusive collections that we create for our partners around the world.
What’s on the agenda for today?
I’m deep in preparations for our upcoming Asia Trunkshow Tour. This time a key event is our collaboration with the legendary Japanese jeans maison, Studio d’Artisan, one of the ‘Osaka 5’ group which pioneered reviving vintage American style clothing in the ’80s. We’re honored to be creating a limited edition made-in-Paris collection for them, where our LR02 jean model will be crafted by hand with one of Studio d’Artisan’s heritage fabrics. It’s a milestone project that represents the meeting of Japanese and French denim savoir-faire, and more personally, the friendship between our two brands. What I admire so much about Japanese denim culture is its spirit of collaboration. Even among competitors, there’s a shared drive to keep pushing the craft forward together.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I’m often at Oenosteria, which serves Tuscan cuisine as fresh and as delicious as you’d find in Italy. Beyond the food, this restaurant is a true local institution in Saint-Germain-des-Prés with a warm, relaxed atmosphere. When I’m craving classic French comfort foods like duck confit and slow-braised beef cheeks, then Café de la Butte in Montmartre is always worth traveling over to.
How about a little leisure or culture?
My second passion after denim is motorsports and mechanics. As a teenager, I was riding in French motocross championships, and today I still unwind by working on my bikes in my garage or riding a dirt bike on the track. People might think that denim and mechanics are worlds apart, but for me, they’re closely connected. My fascination with the mechanical side of vintage sewing machines is what drew me into the denim world. I taught myself how to sew by taking apart vintage sewing machines and rebuilding them piece by piece. Even if you don’t ride, the atmosphere at motocross tracks near Paris is an experience in itself. Many are open to the public, where you can drop by on a regular day to watch riders train, or buy tickets for a race. There’s something special about being in the crowd, the sound of engines roaring around you, while enjoying a traditional merguez sandwich from the trackside grill.
Any weekend getaways?
When I get a chance, I love to take a country drive to Trouville for a stroll on the beach and a great piece of meat at Les 4 Chats. When going a bit farther, I love Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, just a two hour flight away from Paris. I love the beautiful coastline, charming towns, welcoming people — and, of course, tagliatelle al ragù. Every restaurant in the region serves its own interpretation of this dish, often perfected over generations of family tradition. One that I always return to is the fourth generation family restaurant, Ristorante Zaghini in Santarcangelo di Romagna, famous for its tagliatelle hand-made daily on-site.
What was your last great vacation?
I don’t get many vacations in my line of work, but I am very grateful that my work frequently takes me to Japan. Many of the artisans I collaborate with are located in the Okayama Prefecture, so I’ve had a chance to explore its countryside, charming small towns, and local secrets. I recommend renting a car and discovering the small lesser-known towns such as Ibara, Kurashiki, and Fukuyama. There are many small local restaurants to stop by, and one of my favorites is Ichimatsu Ramen, which serves a rich, flavourful ramen that has people coming from all over and queuing outside everyday. But don’t be discouraged, as ramen is served and eaten quickly so the wait is never too long.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
When talking about big-ticket purchases, for me, it’s often a vintage sewing machine to add to the Superstitch workshop. We only use sewing machines from the golden age, and the exact models that were used to make jeans in this period. The Union Special 43200G chainstitch hemming machines are especially rare, and I’ve collected many over the years, but until recently, I had never come across a black-finished model. This version, produced in the 1940s, is considered the holy grail among denim enthusiasts for its rarity. When I finally located one in Fez, Morocco, I flew over immediately to secure it. Machines like this are becoming increasingly scarce, especially in good condition, which is why their value continues to rise. This particular one was missing several key components, and it took me some time (and more investment!) to restore it to perfect working order. Now it has become my dedicated machine for Trunkshows. I’ve now hemmed customers’ jeans in many places, including Japan, Korea, Singapore, and the Philippines.
What store or service do you always recommend?
One of the most memorable pieces of advice I’ve received was that someone’s shoes speak volumes about the person. So it’s important to invest in good quality shoes, and for me, keeping your shoes polished and well-maintained isn’t just about appearance, but also a way of showing respect to the people you meet. For beautifully made shoes, I’ve always admired the French shoemaker J.M. Weston. Each pair is crafted in their atelier in Limoges using traditional techniques. Their 180 loafer, for example, is named for the 180 steps required to make it. Their dedication to preserving traditional savoir-faire reflects the same values of Superstitch.
Where are you donating your time or money?
I’ve been working with Japanese denim artisans, local industry associations and also the Japanese consulate to support and promote traditional denim craftsmanship, and also to encourage a new generation to step into the industry and eventually carry the baton forward. Today fewer young people are choosing to work in denim manufacturing, so there’s a worry about the decline and eventual loss of priceless savoir-faire, especially in selvedge denim weaving. Last year I undertook a two-month apprenticeship with one of my artisan partners to train in weaving denim by traditional shuttlelooms, and also how to maintain and repair these old machines. The next step is to import a Japanese shuttle loom to France and set up a weaving operation right here in Paris. My hope is that this project will help lay the foundations for rebuilding a denim manufacturing industry in France.
GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Bakery
All seasons affair
Panettone is usually a once-a-year affair, a treat reserved for the holiday season. Not so at Christophe Louie in the Marais, where the Italian brioche gets the spotlight all year long. His are made with French butter, stone-milled flour, Île-de-France honey, candied Calabrian orange, and plump raisins soaked until they burst. On top: a sugared dome studded with almonds from Sicily and Puglia. Thanks to the levain, they stay fresh for weeks, though they rarely last that long.
Louie trained under Mauro Morandin, inherited a century-old starter, and has since become the local master of the form. Alongside the classic, you’ll find savory collabs (like one with Petrossian, featuring nori and green kosho) and seasonal riffs like Moka-spiced or yuzu-infused loaves. Also on offer: a few pastries (orange blossom madeleines, hazelnut financiers) and loaves made with ancient grains. But let’s be honest, you came here for the panettone. –Victoire Loup
→ Christophe Louie (2nd arr) • 12 rue Dupetit-Thouars • Tue-Sat 9h30-19h30, Sun 10h-16h30.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Crush
Ethel Cain • L’Olympia (9th arr) • Sat @ 20h • cat 1, 58 € per
Gustavo Santaolalla • Le Bataclan (11th arr) • Sun @ 18h • cat 1, 72 € per
Gogol Bordello • Le Trianon (18th arr) • Sat @ 19h30 • GA, 36 € per
GETAWAYS • Italy
Wine cave
For all its charm and beauty, Como isn’t an easy city in which to eat and drink well. There are plenty of tourist traps on the water, mountainside dining rooms with better views than kitchens, and piazza-seating locales with identical menus forgotten as soon as the receipt is printed. But there are, of course, exceptions. Like Vineria Vitani.
Nestled in the narrow Via Vitani in Como centro and open since 2022, the unassuming enoteca seems at first glance to be just a wine shop, of which there is no shortage (it’s Italy, after all). Closer inspection reveals not only the most evident feature — floor-to-ceiling bottles of wine — but also a carefully curated tasting menu and flights of (mostly Italian) wines. Davide De Ascentis is the oenophilic proprietor who assembled nearly 20,000 bottles from over 5,000 labels (one of the largest selections in Italy). The offerings are mostly Italian, with about 25 percent French and a smattering of other Old World producers.
De Ascentis (who also owns and manages Krudo in nearby Piazza Volta) and his team of four sommeliers not only sell by the bottle, helping even seasoned collectors find just the right vintage, but will happily arrange tastings to hone your palate or serve wines by the glass to enjoy with a friend. A large communal table as well as two-tops dot the interior, which is modern and comfortable, sleek but not slick. The food is high-quality salumeria fare — cinghiale carpaccio is a standout — with local and seasonal options. For the discerning or the discreet, a private tasting room can accommodate roughly 10 people for an individually crafted event. If you can do without a view of the lake and its goings-on, Vitani is the number one spot for wine and convivial conversation in Como. –Charlie Davidson
→ Vineria Vitani (Como, Italy) • Via Vitani 31 • Mon-Sat 11a-10p • Book.
GETAWAYS LINKS: Design apartment operator Limehome debuts in Montmartre • Why Lens is the perfect Parisian daytrip • On the market: a perfect Provençal farmhouse • Hiking an unruly but beautiful new coastal path in south-west Scotland • Buy a black timber summer house on the edge of the Baltic.
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GOODS & SERVICES • The Nines
Croissants
The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.
Leonie Bakery (17th arr, above), former judo champion Kamel Saci’s bakery brings international flair to traditional French baking