RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: For his first solo project Matka, chef Piotr Korzen introduces the soulful cuisine of his Polish childhood to the Marais, filtered through the precision of French technique, served with the warmth of a family kitchen.
The Vibe: The space feels like a cross between a Kraków bistro and a storybook cottage: exposed stone walls, antique mirrors, a bottle-green leather banquette, a working fireplace. The open kitchen is visible from the second room in the back through a red-painted corridor.
The Food & Drink: Start with a herring tartare, or a cold pink borscht called chłodnik. Throughout the menu, items are stuffed but not stuffy: pierogi filled with potato, onion, and pressed faisselle; cabbage rolls (gołąbki) with lamb and rice; a chicken roulade with raisins and almonds. If it’s on the menu, order the smoked trout with buckwheat blinis and crème fraîche. Desserts include a fluffy cheesecake with rhubarb, and a poppy seed roll (makowiec) with meringue and chocolate ice cream. Even the drinks nod to home, with Rondo and Regent grapes from young Polish winemakers, plus a few bottles of vodka and cider for good measure.
The Verdict: A vibrant and authentic debut. –Victoire Loup
→ Matka (Marais) • 78 Rue Quincampoix • Wed-Sun 12h-14h & 19h30-22h • Book.