Off piste

Val d'Isere Experimental Chalet

GETAWAYS • French Alps

After living in France for more than 30 years, I’d pretty much given up on the country’s ski resorts. Yes, almost cloyingly pretty Megève has several excellent restaurants — Les Flocons du Sel serves up a brilliantly creative and rigorous modern rendering of Savoyard cooking — and the experience of visiting a favorite snow-dusted p…