RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: The team behind natural wine spot Buttes Snack Bar have revived neighboring restaurant Cadoret, which closed earlier this summer to acute local chagrin. Although it’s been christened “@nouveaucadoret” on Instagram, the refreshed restaurant maintains its original spirit via unfussy French classics and flexible all-day hours.
The Vibe: Even after a light refresh this summer, the interiors remain all classic bistrot, with crown moldings on the ceiling, mirrored walls, a prominent zinc bar, and folded white cloth napkins on the tables. There are four coveted outdoor two-tops — they’re a little wobbly, set on the angular rue Pradier, but perfect for people-watching along the immediate intersection of three mostly residential streets. Smokers and flaneurs may fight you for them.
The Food & Drink: The lunch menu is entrée/plat/dessert for 25 €. As announced on a propped-up chalkboard, the offerings change regularly, and recently included a terrine with cornichons or cucumber with almond cream and XO sauce as a starter, followed by either veal alla romana with salsa verde and pecorino or tuna steak — cooked à la plancha, and treated exactly like a beefsteak with sauce au poivre — accompanied by potatoes topped with purslane. At dinner, mains also included braised beef cheek or monkfish with BBQ sauce.
The bread, which is excellent, comes from Pain, a boulangerie in the 19th arrondissement closer to the Bassin de la Villette. For dessert, a simple slice of cheese could end the meal, but I ventured for île flottante, that delectable French culinary classic of whipped lump crosshatched with caramel sauce and soaking in a light crème anglaise (which threatened to tip out of the bowl because of the aforementioned hillside location outdoors).
The Verdict: If you loved Cadoret before, you’ll be blissfully unperturbed by the change in ownership. If you’ve never been, it’s a Belleville staple that doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard and is worth making a reservation for — or popping in ad hoc for an early drink. –Sarah Moroz
→ Cadoret (19th arr) • 1 Rue Pradier • Tue-Sat 08h30-0h (meals only during set hours) • Call to reserve: (33) 01-40 55-06-31.