GETAWAYS • Luxembourg
The Skinny: Housed in the village’s former pharmacy, Apdikt is part old-world apothecary, part contemporary sanctuary — a space where every detail hums with quiet intent. The spirit of Hippocrates is literally etched into the glass: “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.”
The Vibe: An open kitchen offers a view of chef Mathieu Van Wetteren — or “captain,” as he calls himself — sailing towards the season’s prime produce, indie rock at his sails. “Lisztomania” by Phoenix is on the stereo, and I’m 15 again, seated at the white tablecloth, waiting for the riot to come.
The room is dimly lit textural, serious, but unpretentious. There are rough limewashed walls, soft tiles, and a striking black wood bar anchored by a green Bankers lamp. Large jars labeled with plant names in sober gothic script dot the space, evoking a potion workshop that just happens to serve impeccable food. Up a flight of stairs, the toilets are surrealist plunge pools of sorts — tiled in deep aquatic greens, with tattoo-style illustrations and playful nods to the chef’s world. The table is set with intention, but I won’t spoil it — its progression is part of the curated experience.
The Food: Each course of the tasting menu delivers impact with precision, never overpowering. It’s the rhythm of perfectly tuned drums: deep, expansive, immersive. One dish mirrors Phoenix’s outpouring of emotions, a chawanmushi with kombu and roasted scallops dashi, bbq peas, topped with sake-marinated salmon roe and a wild garlic oil. So clear in its flavors and balance, I almost didn’t want to take another bite so the moment wouldn’t end.
The stuffed morel, filled with brandade mousse, veiled in a hazelnut foam and a wild garlic jus, is all umami and forest — dark and light in one bite. Chef Mathieu breaks my heart a little, as I don’t see bread on the horizon. I could glide on the jus; surprisingly the vessel makes it very spoonable. The pieces are brought back together as the next dish comes with a shiny saucepan left tableside, accompanied (of course) by a thick-crusted bread.
Desserts follow the same principle: full-bodied but never heavy. A truffle ice cream with Isigny chantilly, caramel of topinambour, and sablé crumble is decadent but focused. An ice cream sandwich — gaufrette, pickled plum marmalade, crushed nuts — is the kind of bite that keeps you silent. One might expect a pharmaceutical coolness, a detached precision, but the plates are incredibly generous in taste and texture. Comforting, yet striking. Think less, but see it grow.
The Drink: The wine pairing is revelatory. As a somm myself, it’s the first time I truly understood how magical a perfect pairing can be — a complete experience. Each sip of the vinho verde accompanying the briny scallop carpaccio takes you deeper: you're not at the table anymore, you're at the criée with an oyster still on your tongue. The wine journey is deeply considered — an off-the-beaten-path Côtes du Rhône blanc from Elodie Jaume, a 2019 Merlot from Bordeaux, L’Étoile du Temps, closes the meal with the pigeon — round, earthy, and exactly what the name suggests: a bit timeless, and a rare Banyuls blanc from the far south of Roussillon. Every sip matched to a moment. There’s no non-alcoholic pairing, but a marigold kombucha from Belgian maker Rish fills the gap with grace.
The Verdict: Apdikt doesn’t shout — it murmurs, it simmers, it lingers. A house of precision, generosity, and slow-blooming wonder. You leave full but not heavy, senses sharpened, palate grateful, and already plotting your return. Like a riot — inspiring. –Candice Chemel
→ Apdikt (Luxembourg) • 1 rue des Martyrs • Tue-Sat 19h-22h • Book.