Lingering on

Castel de Très Girard (Morey-Saint-Denis)

GETAWAYS • Burgundy

In the heart of the Côte de Nuits, surrounded by vineyards that stretch toward the horizon, Castel de Très Girard sits just high enough above the vines to take in the view, yet remains rooted within the landscape.

On Sundays, the hotel hosts a brunch practically tailor-made for easing into the day after a generous dinner the night before (perhaps accompanied by one too many glasses of Grand Cru).

Whether seated by the fireplace or on the shaded terrace, guests inevitably find themselves drawn toward the centerpiece of the experience: the buffet.

Starting brunch with oysters? Brilliant. Fresh, briny, and delicately nutty, they seem designed to clear away the last traces of the previous evening and awaken the palate. Then those seeking a gentle transition from breakfast can start with pastries, viennoiseries, and cereals. Others head straight for plump shrimp, seafood platters, carefully prepared maki, charcuterie, and thoughtfully selected cheeses. An egg station allows each guest to order eggs as they like them, while a series of beautifully composed vegetable dishes celebrate the season, such as asparagus generously coated in a silky sauce.

At the far end of the terrace, a sturdy cast-iron brasero occupies a raised platform. Throughout the service, the chef grills the dishes of the day to order: perhaps a pluma of pork or a thick fillet of salmon.

Desserts are a final indulgence. A choux bun with whipped cream and blackberries, a rich chocolate mousse, or a homemade sorbet.

With no fewer than 124 Champagne references and a cellar list stretching over 50 pages, the wine list reflects both ambition and great local pride. Thirty pages are devoted exclusively to Burgundy, a forgivable chauvinism given the setting. The selection is sharp and generous, ranging from approachable regional appellations to sought-after allocations, with bottles suited to every palate and budget. Alongside the great names, DRC to not name any, are discoveries such as the Aligotés of Goisot, which I am always delighted to encounter.

And should a glass of chardonnay once again persuade you to stay a little longer, the hotel’s eight intimate rooms offer the perfect excuse. A final night among the vines, a quiet morning overlooking the slopes of Burgundy, and the feeling that the weekend need not end just yet. –Candice Chemel

→ Castel de Très Girard (Morey-Saint-Denis) • 7 rue de Très Girard • Daily 12h-13h30, 19h-21h30 • Rates from €199/night.