Mystery bar
Le Rosebud, Le Perche, D’une île, Wani, Orchestre Colonne, La Clef, La Maison Moizeau & La Marine, MORE
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three apartments currently on offer around Parc Monceau in the 8th arr:
→ Monceau (metro Saint-Philippe-du-Roule) • 4BR/3BA, 257 m2 • Ask: 2.95M € • classically styled apartment on 1st floor with windows to street and courtyard • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 5080 € • Agent: Paola Feau, Daniel Feau.
→ Malesherbes Parc Monceau (metro Villiers, above) • 5BR/3BA, 259 m2 • Ask: 4.095M € • renovated 3rd floor apartment in 1880 building • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 4200 € • Agent: Philippe Joffre, Barnes.
→ Monceau (metro Miromesnil) • 5BR/4BA, 389 m2 • Ask: 7.5M € • massive 4th floor apartment with corner dining room overlooking Parc Monceau entrance • Annual maintenance/condo fees: N/A • Agent: Sophie Jehier, Sotheby’s.
WORK • Friday Routine
Poetry in motion
HANAKO MURAKAMI • artist, researcher, interpreter
Neighborhood you live & work in: 17th arr
It’s Friday morning. How are you rolling into the weekend?
After picking up our daughter from school, we usually head straight to Le Perche, where we’re slowly renovating an old house ourselves — my husband is an architect, which helps. It’s actually two small houses with a big garden, and I love watching how everything changes with the seasons. You can pick mushrooms or chestnuts in the forest, or just walk, breathe, and look up at the trees. As an artist preparing several exhibitions for the bicentennial of photography in 2026-27, and working on my upcoming residency at Villa Albertine in NYC, I spend a lot of time in front of screens, so disconnecting is essential.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
For our wedding anniversary this weekend, we’re going to D’une île, which is much more than a restaurant. If you like Septime, La Cave, or Clamato in Paris, you’ll love this. It’s their countryside version, a maison d’hôte in the heart of Le Perche. Everything is local, seasonal, sustainable, and honestly delicious. I’ve written a lot of my recent texts and poems while staying there. Good food in a good mood makes you a poet, I guess. It’s one of the reasons we chose Le Perche for our second home.
How about a little leisure or culture?
Everyone already mentions the Bourse du Commerce, the new Fondation Cartier, or the Fondation Louis Vuitton. A show I loved recently was the Roger Caillois mineral exhibition at the École des Arts Joailliers. You see smoky mountains and skyscrapers inside pieces of stone — what he called “stones and reveries.” And a place many people don’t know: Jean-Kenta Gauthier. They show beautiful conceptual work, with spaces in Odéon and Vaugirard.
Any weekend getaways?
When we don’t drive to Le Perche, we sometimes organise a piano concert at home. We’re hosting a friend’s piano, and with his local association, we invite rising pianists and sometimes opera singers. It’s our way of creating a little musical getaway without leaving Paris.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
Buying a house means furnishing it, too. For winter, we invested in a beautiful Jøtul cast-iron stove, and we chose a table and chairs by the modernist designer Ilmari Tapiovaara. Otherwise, we try to find pieces in antique shops and local thrift stores.
What store or service do you always recommend?
I often go to Opéra for my Japanese groceries. Kioko is the classic stop. When I want something more refined, I go to Nishikidôri, a beautiful spice shop where you can find 40 different kinds of salt. There’s also iRASSHAi, near the Bourse du Commerce. And once I’m done with groceries, I usually stop by Fromagerie Hisada, a cheese shop run by a Japanese cheesemaker. Her mozzarella wrapped in a sakura leaf is incredible — it smells exactly like cherry blossoms. She’s a magician with alcohol-washed cheeses too: maroilles washed with sake, goat cheese infused with whisky… she creates things you don’t forget.
Where are you donating your time or money?
Lately, most of my time goes into a Japanese artists’ union I’m helping organize. It’s demanding, but it’s truly a passion. Through this group, we contributed to the Japanese translation of UNESCO’s new Fair Culture Charter. The charter already exists in nine languages and we’ve been preparing the Japanese version so it can circulate within the local art community. It’s about fair working conditions, sustainability, and a healthier cultural ecosystem. In every way, it feels like a small step toward a brighter future for artists.
Photo: Taisuke Yoshida
PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: Saving La Clef movie theater, with a little help from Tarantino and Scorsese • Steep price hike at the Louvre for most non-European visitors • Barclays to relocate European headquarters to Paris from Dublin • Vogue’s Paris Fashion Week Men’s cheat sheet… and Wallpaper’s live highlights • Paris mourns Valentino, last titan of couture’s golden age • Paris in uncertain times.
GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Shop
Soft sell
Just steps from the busy Bon Marché, Wani is a soft-spoken Japanese coffee shop-slash-tea salon. Opened by Sugio Yamaguchi (formerly of Botanique), past the line of admirers waiting to get in, you’ll find a hidden pocket of calm in the middle of the 6th arrondissement. Inside, the space is tiny (just 10 seats) and serene: white walls, sculptural branches, hand-drawn illustrations, with everything served in beautiful ceramics.
The drinks are as elegant as the setting: precise pour-over coffee, matcha whisked to order and hand-ground in a mortar, fresh juices, kombucha, nutty genmaicha, and hot chocolate made with Nicolas Berger cacao.
When I stopped by for lunch last year, the seasonal, plant-forward menu included a mille-feuille of carrot, turnip, and sweet potato, layered with pesto and kumquat. It reminded me of the terrazzo-like vegetable terrine by Lastre Sans Apostrophe, which, it turns out, was Yamaguchi’s inspiration. And because everything at Wani feels like art, even the scallop ceviche looked like a monochrome painting.
But the most coveted (and photographed) dish is the tomme tartine with black truffle, a thick slice of bread smothered in melted cheese, laced with a whisper-thin layer of Périgord black truffle, and finished with a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt.
Desserts and snack items range from a matcha flan by pastry chef Chihiro Katsui to a madeleine topped with a spoonful of caviar and chive flowers, a bergamot cake, and some of the best cookies in Paris. They’ll probably sell out, so go early. –Victoire Loup
→ Wani (Saint-Placide) • 7 ter Rue Saint-Placide • Daily 9h-18h.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Birthday Party
Dirk Maassen • Salle Cortot (17th arr) • Sat @ 20h • cat 1, 35 € per
Orchestre Colonne • Jean-Claude Casadesus’ birthday • Théâtre des Champs-Élysées (8th arr) • Sun @ 18h • orch, 85 € per
All Time Low• Salle Pleyel (8th arr) • Mon @ 18h15 • cat 1, 50 € per
GETAWAYS • Noirmoutier-en-l’Île
Island reset
On the edge of Noirmoutier’s fishing port lies a rare pairing: La Marine, the award-winning restaurant of chef Alexandre Couillon, and La Maison Moizeau, its understated, soulful guesthouse. Together, they offer a weekend of dining or resting, fully immersed in the rhythms of the presqu’île.
La Maison Moizeau is a five-room retreat named after a nearby beach. The rooms are called Lutins, Blanche, Jean, Madeleine, and Clère, the latter two being spacious enough for families. All are dressed in natural wood, soft linens, and warm metals, echoing textures of the sea and harbor visible from most windows. The design is by Otso Studio, a duo of young Parisian architects with family roots on the island. The mood is calm and unpretentious. There’s a warm welcome, and at breakfast, smoked fish and hazelnut cake.
Just steps away, La Marine is a culinary pilgrimage. Here, Couillon and his wife Céline have transformed his parents’ restaurant into one of France’s most revered dining experiences. The tasting menu revolves around ikejime fish, foraged herbs, and vegetables from their garden. The dining room overlooks the Herbaudière port. Like the service, the room is serene and intimate, allowing the food to take center stage.
Between meals at La Marine and the nearby sister-restaurant Elise, hopping on a bicycle is highly recommended to explore the rest of this “almost-island.” You can also stroll to the salt marshes, visit the local markets, or simply watch the boats drift in and out of the harbor. Life here moves to a different rhythm. –Victoire Loup
→ La Maison Moizeau & La Marine (Noirmoutier-en-l’Île) • 3 & 7 Rue Marie Lemonnier • from €180/night.
GETAWAYS LINKS: Inside new restaurant and natural wine bar Jozy in Rennes • Amsterdam’s Conservatorium Hotel becomes Mandarin Oriental • Switzerland’s Gstaad Palace gives its largest restaurant an opulent makeover • On travel and reasons to return.
BARS • First Round
Time shift
The moment you walk into Rosebud, time seems to shift. Turn the knob, open the door, the light dims, and suddenly you’re in a bygone Paris of the 1960s.
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