Kid’s got it
Les Gamins (Besançon)
GETAWAYS • Besançon
A haven for bon vivants, Les Gamins in Besançon is a place where comfort, generosity, and a quiet sense of indulgence come together in a softly lit, welcoming atmosphere. Velvet textures, warm terracotta tones, Moroccan-inspired details, and flattering lighting all conspire towards a chic, intimate setting.
At lunchtime, the menu is remarkably generous, flawlessly executed, and paired with a cellar book brimming with excellent finds. The by-the-glass selection at midday is particularly thoughtful and carefully curated. A sublime cheese plate gently bridges savory and sweet — aged Comté paired with a vin jaune caramel, pumpkin seeds, and a small sphere of pure joy, a perfectly crisp gougère filled with a Comté Mornay sauce — matched with a glass of vin jaune.
In the evening, the restaurant reveals another side. A quiet back room opens up, lined with tables set for two, large-format bottle trophies displayed in wall niches. Two businessmen, clearly in town for work, dine solo at neighboring tables; before long, they strike up a conversation and end up sharing each other’s bottles. That’s the spirit of Les Gamins: the pleasure of sharing great food and great wine, naturally and without pretense.
The creative forces behind the restaurant are Arnaud Billerey and his wife, Clothilde Mulin. Throughout his career, Arnaud was often the youngest in the restaurants where he worked, earning him the nickname Le Gamin (“the kid”). The name stuck, becoming the identity of the restaurant, now located just across the street from the school he once attended, a quiet and affectionate wink to his past.
The constantly evolving menu takes classic, comforting French cuisine and gently twists it toward bolder, spicier, more vibrant flavors — always generous, always impeccably cooked. These are saucy, soulful plates, the kind you instinctively mop up with bread. The chef works extensively with matured meats to develop deeper flavors and incorporates Korean barbecue techniques to enhance texture and intensity.
The wine list is exceptional, featuring over 500 references of natural and biodynamic wines. Burgundy and Jura take center stage, with rare and confidential labels, exceptional bottles offered at surprisingly gentle prices. A thoughtful New World selection (California, Australia, and beyond) rounds out the cellar, making it one of the most exciting wine destinations in the city. –Candice Chemel
→ Les Gamins (Besançon) • 10 rue Pasteur • Mon-Sat 12h-14h & 19h-00h • Book.