RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table
The Backstory: From Japan to Paris with stops in Spain and Denmark, Takayuki Honjo has been trained by some of the greatest (including Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz and René Redzepi of Noma). At Restaurant ES (for “esprit”), he shares what he’s learned, creatively enhancing seasonal products throughout the 13-course menu.
The Experience: Calm and serene, beautifully in line with the refined decor. It’s an intimate space, and as a party of 10, we had the restaurant to ourselves on a Sunday night. Among the highlights: squid and mango tartare with trout roe and a lace-like pastry so crispy it almost seemed sparkling; pumpkin velouté, so pure; an ode to autumn of cep mushrooms, Iberian ham, Parmesan sabayon, and black truffle; and Japanese beef fillet smoked in hay, red wine sauce, celeriac purée, and salsify.
Between each course, Honjo, dressed in an immaculate chef’s coat, comes up from his kitchen to explain what’s on our plates. He is assisted by his wife, also the pastry chef, who stunned us on with an astoundingly soft, well-structured truffle ice cream.
Why It’s FOUND: It’s a kitchen rendezvous of French and Japanese spirits. At ES, each course is a sublime tantalizer of all five senses. –Marie Sadron
→ Restaurant ES (7th Arr) • 91 Rue de Grenelle • Tue-Sat 19h30-23h • € 150-250 per • Call to reserve: (33)-1-45-51-25-74.