Detailed devotion
Kodawari, Burgundy wine bars, on the market in Auteuil, Fugu R, Spiti Sou, Le Doyenné, Auberge de la Dame Jouanne, MORE
WORK • Friday Routine
Making waves
QUENTIN GARREAU DE LA BARRE • co-founder and director of operations • Fuga
Neighborhood you live in: 12th arr
It’s Friday afternoon. How are you rolling into the weekend?
Across from the Grand Palais, at the foot of Pont Alexandre III, our floating restaurant Riviera Fuga is slowly waking up. The Seine is like glass: no waves, no boats, just a handful of ducks swimming upstream. It’s the calm before the storm.
Everyone is getting busy preparing for lunch service. The cooks are receiving and checking deliveries on the quay; others are already at the stoves, prepping for what promises to be a full house. The bartender is zesting oranges for spritzes, while the servers check their stations and fill wine buckets with ice. We’re getting ready for our pre-service briefing. Today’s menu: as a starter, sea bream sashimi with ponzu nashi and tamarind; as a main, homemade gnocchi with yuzu mascarpone sauce and basil; and for dessert, our legendary brioche perdue with miso caramel and ricotta ice cream.
What’s on the agenda for today?
We kick off the day at Riviera Fuga with a debrief of yesterday’s service by the front- and back-of-house teams. Lunch tasting at Laïa, our Mediterranean bistro tucked away in a garden on Boulevard Voltaire, in the 11th arrondissement, with a rooftop vegetable garden. The cuisine is inspired by southern France, Spain, and Italy. We’ll be trying several Laïazzas, the house specialty, delicious gourmet sourdough pizzette made for sharing. We’ll also have grilled octopus cooked on a robata with smoked aioli and green vegetables.
The day continues in the 8th arrondissement with a site visit. We’re just about to open a new rooftop, Fuga R, steps from Parc Monceau [opened last month! –ed.]
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
Otto, Rue Mouffetard in the 5th, a wine bar with shared plates, a great vibe, and a beautiful wine list
Spiti Sou, Quai des Grands Augustins in the 6th, a Greek restaurant with a lovely, softly lit ambiance and amazing dishes
Shabour, Rue Saint-Sauveur in the 2nd, Israeli cuisine at the counter
Any weekend getaways?
For dinner: Le Doyenné in Saint-Vrain, a restaurant-farm-garden just outside Paris, run by two Australian chefs. For nature: the 25-Bump Trail in the Fontainebleau forest, a sporty eight-hour hike. Don’t miss the Cul de Chien sands! Thirty million years ago, a warm ocean covered the area, leaving quartz deposits that eventually disintegrated into sand. For lunch: aperitif at the Auberge de la Dame Jouanne, in the heart of the Fontainebleau forest.
What was your last great vacation?
Cap Corse on Corsica for Genoese towers, old American houses, trails through maquis and along the sea, wild beaches, hidden coves, and exceptional villages.
PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: JR’s installation La Caverne du Pont Neuf, scheduled to open tomorrow, delayed by wind damage • ‘Dig of the Century’ underneath Notre Dame unearths relics stretching back 2000 years • How France’s World Cup players are upping the game on personal style • Ode to the Paris cinema • What’s next for PSG?
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three properties for sale around Auteuil in the 16th arr:
→ Raffet / Montmorency (metro Jasmin) • 4BR/3.1BA, 270 m² duplex • Ask: 5.9M € • Penthouse spanning 10th and 11th floors of grand mid-20th century building, 150m² of terraces w/ panoramic views of Eiffel Tower and Paris skyline • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 19,520 € • Agent: Frédéric Van Wemmel, Daniel Feau.
→ Villa Montmorency (metro Jasmin, above) • 5BR/3.5BA, 250 m² townhouse • Ask: 7.5M € • in most discreet part of Villa Montmorency private enclave, renovated 4-level family home w/ garden • Annual maintenance/condo fees: N/A • Agent: Frédéric Van Wemmel, Daniel Feau.
→ Auteuil (metro Chardon Lagache) • 8BR/4BA, 498 m² mansion • Ask: 24.9M € • massive property including 3-level townhouse and separate guest house, plus fitness room, massage room, hammam, and garden • Annual maintenance/condo fees: N/A • Agent: Juliette Chavane, Barnes.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Last Seats
Ercole amante • Palais Garnier (9th arr) • Fri @ 1930h • optima, 175 € per
Fabrice Eboué • Le Trianon (18th arr) • Sat @ 20h • cat 2, 55 € per
The Streets • Salle Pleyel (18th arr) • Mon @ 20h • carre or, 66 € per
GETAWAYS • The Nines
Wine bars, Burgundy
The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Paid subscribers access the complete Nines archive.
La Dilettante (Beaune), beloved industry hotspot for organic and natural wines, French and Asian-inspired small plates
Le Soleil (Savigny-lès-Beaune), charming bistro-wine bar, spacious outdoor seating serving natural wines and contemporary plates with Asian, Italian, and Moroccan influences
Chez Bruno (Dijon), personality-driven spot in heart of Dijon w/ 850+ wine references, hand-carved cheese and charcuterie boards
La Cuverie de Vosne (Vosne-Romanée), wine bar, organic grocery, and auberge founded by Liger-Belair family w/ 1000+ organic and biodynamic wine references,
Crème (Beaune, above), café by day, natural wine bar by night, go-to hangout for region’s young winemakers
La Cave du Centre (Chagny), natural wine bar and cave à manger 15 minutes south of Beaune, founded by natural wine writer Aaron Ayscough
Chablis Wine Not (Chablis), wine shop, tasting bar, and restaurant in 3-level space w/ with 1500+ references (many from Chablis and elsewhere in Burgundy)
Maison du Colombier (Beaune), cozy wine bar with extensive selections of 1500+ references plus tapas situated in a historic 16th-century building stone’s throw from Hospices de Beaune
Le Monde d’Après (Dijon), low key, hole-in-the-wall natural wine bar in heart of Dijon, rotating curated selections based on owner’s current discoveries
GETAWAYS LINKS: Checking in at the just-reopened Chateau la Commaraine in Pommard • Hotel Hubertos unveils new spa experiences in the heart of the Dolomites • Lisbon’s Casa do Dafundo is a true passion project.
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RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table
Art of craft
A few blocks from the Seine, on Rue Mazarine, there’s almost always a line out front of Kodawari Ramen. Don’t let it deter you.