Cocktail culture
Cadoret, Harry's New York Bar, Bar De Vie, Saint-Georges properties, ReSee, Paris Fashion Week, Monsters Within, Blast, best Lyon restaurants, MORE
RESTAURANTS • First Word
Nouveau Belleville
The Skinny: The team behind natural wine spot Buttes Snack Bar have revived neighboring restaurant Cadoret, which closed earlier this summer to acute local chagrin. Although it’s been christened “@nouveaucadoret” on Instagram, the refreshed restaurant maintains its original spirit via unfussy French classics and flexible all-day hours.
The Vibe: Even after a light refresh this summer, the interiors remain all classic bistrot, with crown moldings on the ceiling, mirrored walls, a prominent zinc bar, and folded white cloth napkins on the tables. There are four coveted outdoor two-tops — they’re a little wobbly, set on the angular rue Pradier, but perfect for people-watching along the immediate intersection of three mostly residential streets. Smokers and flaneurs may fight you for them.
The Food & Drink: The lunch menu is entrée/plat/dessert for 25 €. As announced on a propped-up chalkboard, the offerings change regularly, and recently included a terrine with cornichons or cucumber with almond cream and XO sauce as a starter, followed by either veal alla romana with salsa verde and pecorino or tuna steak — cooked à la plancha, and treated exactly like a beefsteak with sauce au poivre — accompanied by potatoes topped with purslane. At dinner, mains also included braised beef cheek or monkfish with BBQ sauce.
The bread, which is excellent, comes from Pain, a boulangerie in the 19th arrondissement closer to the Bassin de la Villette. For dessert, a simple slice of cheese could end the meal, but I ventured for île flottante, that delectable French culinary classic of whipped lump crosshatched with caramel sauce and soaking in a light crème anglaise (which threatened to tip out of the bowl because of the aforementioned hillside location outdoors).
The Verdict: If you loved Cadoret before, you’ll be blissfully unperturbed by the change in ownership. If you’ve never been, it’s a Belleville staple that doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard and is worth making a reservation for — or popping in ad hoc for an early drink. –Sarah Moroz
→ Cadoret (19th arr) • 1 Rue Pradier • Tue-Sat 08h30-0h (meals only during set hours) • Call to reserve: (33) 01-40 55-06-31.
RESTAURANTS & BARS • Intel
DIVE IN: In the 11th, Superfine plans to open on 15 October in what was formerly the music venue Le Motel. It’s describing itself as a “new wave dive bar” and a “dive bar version française,” suggesting it’s looking to be a laidback neighborhood spot. In true 11th arrondissement-style it’ll be serving craft cocktails, beers, and natural wines as well as food 16h-2h, and as a nod to Le Motel, it will also host DJ sets.
BACK ON THE BOULEVARD: This week, Harry’s New York Bar relaunched The Boulevardier magazine that the Boulevardier cocktail was of course named after. The plan is to publish it biannually with a literary focus anchored by cocktails (rather than being a cocktail magazine). The first issue focuses on heritage, with a mix of new articles by current writers as well as articles published in the original magazine (including one by Ernest Hemingway) and original advertisements from the time from brands such as Cointreau. It took Patrick Dooley, a bartender at Harry’s whose idea it was to relaunch the magazine, two years to do his research, contact various spirits brands and the Hemingway estate, and put everything together before finally launching the magazine anew. –Nicola Leigh Stewart
PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: Beneath Comptoir De Vie in the 2nd, Bar De Vie opens in subterranean limestone cave • Inside the Amalfi Coast-inspired dining room at La Baia, new in the 8th • Hanging with La Joie chef and co-owner Minod Dilakshan • Virgil Abloh: The Codes exhibition opens Tuesday at Grand Palais • Why Paris is giving its cultural icons a makeover • Autumn comes to Paris all at once.
REAL ESTATE • On the Market
Three properties currently on offer around Saint-Georges in the 9th arr:
→ Saint-Georges (metro Saint-Georges) • 2BR/1.1BA, 107 m2 • Ask: 2.1M € • 4th-floor pied-à-terre renovated by architect • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 3528 € • Agent: Thomas Deroudilhe, Sotheby’s.
→ Saint-Georges Square (metro Saint-Georges) • 3BR/3BA, 127 m2 • Ask: 2.1M € • furnished 3rd-floor flat with high ceilings, parquet floors, and fireplaces • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 4200 € • Agent: Agnieszka Milej, Engel & Völkers.
→ Rue des Martyrs/Saint-Georges (metro Saint-Georges, above) • 2BR/1.1BA, 183 m2 • Ask: 2.75M € • part of private mansion with expansive bookshelves and mezzanine office under skylight • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 4920 € • Agent: Bertrand Danloux-Dumesnils, Sotheby’s.
GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Shop
Fashion takeover
Since 2013, former fashion editors Sofia Bernardin and Sabrina Marshall have run ReSee, an online vintage destination and private showroom inside an elegant Haussmannian apartment building on Avenue Kléber. Now, they’ve opened their space to the public. It’s filled with collectible treasures: Hermès and Chanel purses line the shelves, and on the racks, perfectly curated fall finds, like a Phoebe Philo-era Céline coat, a black silk ruched Bottega Veneta dress, a Tom Ford-for-Gucci ruffled shirt, and even a Prada skirt once featured in Sex and the City. Alongside these classic high-end items are more everyday finds — an affordable Levi’s Re/Done denim skirt, a 2020 Miu Miu striped sweater, and the perfect Céline loafers.
Unlike vintage shops which overwhelm with endless racks, every piece here is considered per the season and moment. And chef de showroom et VIP Mattie Poppe, the shop’s part-stylist, part-confidante, is there to guide you with honesty rather than a hard sell. Even serious collectors will find incredible vintage gems, like a 1960s Chanel red Haute Couture silk dress (2,230 €) and an exceptionally rare 1974 Yves Saint Laurent Dupion silk gown (3,630 €).
Next week, coinciding with Paris Fashion Week, ReSee welcomes a special guest takeover by celebrated fashion visionary Suzanne Koller. She’ll share highlights from her own wardrobe — Old Céline, 1970s Saint Laurent, Maison Margiela, archival Prada. It’s a chance to shop pieces personally curated by one of fashion’s most enduring editorial voices. –Sam Brenzel
→ Shop: ReSee Paris Boutique (16th arr) • 48Bis Avenue Kléber • Mon-Fri 10h-18h and exceptionally Sat 4 October.
CULTURE & LEISURE • Friday Night
Sigur Ros • Salle Pleyel (8th arr) • Fri @ 20h • carre orr, 100 € per
Lauren Spencer Smith • Le Bataclan (11th arr) • Fri @ 20h • tarif normal, 36 € per
Yalin • Le Grand Rex (2nd arr) • Fri @ 20h • carre or, 149 € per
WORK • Friday Routine
Madame Directrice
SOPHIE PEYRARD • documentary filmmaker, culture writer, and reporter
Neighborhood you live & work in: 11th arr
It’s Friday morning. How are you rolling into the weekend?
It depends! When I’m deep in the editing of a TV documentary, like my recent one on Tim Burton, Monsters Within, Fridays are just another workday with long hours in front of screens, fully absorbed. But when I’m in a writing and research phase, like now, the rhythm shifts: mornings at home with coffee, reading and taking notes, then yoga before a quick lunch back home. In the afternoon, I like to loosen the day with a coffee out with friends, or an apéro that often stretches into dinner and marks the real start of the weekend.
What’s on the agenda for today?
Today I’m working on my Substack newsletter, Anti-Algo Club, which I launched this summer. It’s free, twice a month, and it has quickly become my favorite space to share what inspires me most: music, documentary, and art, away from the pull of algorithms. Alongside that, I’ve also been invited to collaborate with BEAU Magazine as deputy editor-in-chief for their winter issue. BEAU is an independent publication that just launched an English edition. This afternoon, we have an editorial meeting to plan the next edition.
Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I love the weekday lunch menus at Paris restaurants. For around 25 euros, you can enjoy the full “entrée-plat-dessert” experience without breaking the bank. One of my favorites is Pluto, the restaurant inside Lafayette Anticipations. The food is refined and inventive, the setting is beautiful, and you can wander straight into the current exhibition afterward. This weekend I’m planning to try La Joie, a new Sri Lankan spot not far from where I live known for its vibrant flavors and lively atmosphere. Unless I fall back on one of my safe bets, like Café Content.
How about a little leisure or culture?
I often spend time wandering through galleries, usually with the help of Paris Gallery Map. It’s a great way to discover new artists and turn it into a walking tour. For the big exhibitions, whether at the Musée d’Art Moderne, Palais de Tokyo, or the Bourse du Commerce, I prefer to go during the week, which is one of the perks of being able to organize my own schedule. I do not see as many concerts as I did when I was working for the underground TV show Tracks on ARTE, but I still keep an eye on the lineups at the Trianon, La Gaîté-Lyrique, or L’Olympia.
Any weekend getaways?
My last getaway was to Margate, a seaside town in Kent. It’s about three and a half hours from Paris: Eurostar to London, then a train to the coast. I stayed at the wonderful Fort Road Hotel. Margate is home to Turner Contemporary and the Carl Freedman Gallery, and it is also where Tracey Emin, an artist I admire deeply, has established her foundation. The food scene is impressive, with standout names like Angela’s, Sète, or Sargasso. It was a brilliant discovery, a true alternative to London, with the sea, fresh air, and unforgettable sunsets.
What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
I don’t usually spend on objects, but on experiences. My most recent was subscription to painting classes with Savoir Dessiner, which has become something I truly enjoy.
What store or service do you always recommend?
The record store Born Bad, a Parisian institution for vinyl and underground sounds
Arts Factory, a gallery for zines and graphic art
Papier Tigre for their beautifully designed stationery
The alcohol-free wine shop Déjà bu?
Buddy Buddy for their organic cinnamon roll nut butter
JJ Hings for ice cream
Where are you donating your time or money?
I support several causes, but if I had to highlight one, it would be Blast, an independent investigative media outlet in France. At a time when most major news outlets are owned by billionaires, supporting independent journalism feels crucial. Blast is led by a younger generation of journalists, including Salomé Saqué, whose book Résiste I particularly admire.
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Got answers or more questions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.
GETAWAYS LINKS: How France turned post-Olympic travel surge into something more lasting • A canal-side reinvention at The Dylan Amsterdam • Fall travel comes into its own.
GETAWAYS • The Nines
Restaurants, Lyon
The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.
Café des Fédérations (1st arr), traditional Lyonnaise bouchon, meat lovers’ paradise, great value 5-course set menu €34 €, book