RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: American chef Mashama Bailey and restaurateur Johno Morisano have opened a branch of their celebrated Savannah, Georgia restaurant The Grey in the former premises of Café l’Espérance, in Faubourg Saint-Germain. They’ve named the new restaurant L’Arrêt by The Grey.
The Vibe: The intimate square dining room with Thonet chairs and bare wood tables is dominated by a beautiful flea-market chandelier, along with a mascot brass art deco statuette of a greyhound Morisano found at a stall at the Porte de Clignancourt. Under the direction of Audrey, a Frenchwoman who previously worked at the Savannah restaurant, the friendly, motivated young staff patiently explain the Southern cuisine to curious book editors, antique dealers, and bourgeois locals tantalized by taking a gastronomic walk on the wild side. Overall, très bon enfant.
The Food & Drink: L’Arrêt is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with brunch on weekends. Lunch ranges from French classics like croque monsieur to cod with Creole sauce and chicken braise aux échalotes. Dinner is when Bailey’s cooking is fully showcased, including macaroni and cheese and chicken captain (a classic Charleston recipe of chicken braised in a curried tomato and pepper sauce with currants and almonds) and chess pie.
The Verdict: A gracious, carefully conceived new Left Bank bistro that aspires to become a neighborhood favorite by offering a gastronomically lyrical menu. –Alexander Lobrano
→ L’Arrêt by The Grey (7th arr) • 36 Rue de l’Université • Mon-Fri 9h-22h, Sat 11h-22h • Call to reserve: (33) 09-84-00-09-08.