France has a short but pretty shoreline on Lake Geneva, but the true great lake of Gaul is the nine-mile-long, two-mile-wide Lac d’Annecy. The cleanest lake in Europe — it’s so pure you can officially drink its waters — has an area of 97 acres running north-south from the delightful town of Annecy in the country’s Haute-Savoie dép…

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REAL ESTATE • On the Market

Three properties on offer on Île Saint-Louis in the 4th arr.

→ Île Saint-Louis (metro Pont Marie) • 3BR/3BA, 95 m2 duplex • Ask: 2.5M € • recently refurbished floor-through flat w/ interior staircase • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 3000 € • Agent: Paris Ouest Sotheby’s.

→ Quai de Béthune (metro Pont Marie) • 2BR/2BA, 134 m2 apartment • Ask: 2.65M € • in former Hesselin private mansion, rebuilt in 1934 in art deco style • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 7580 € • Agent: Romain Moles, Engel & Völkers.

→ Quai d’Orléans (metro Pont Marie, above) • 4BR/5BA, 195 m2 apartment • Ask: 12.5M € • south-facing 5th-floor waterfront apartment w/ Seine and Notre Dame views • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 9600 € • Agent: Guillaume Puech, Daniel Feau.

GETAWAYS • Haute-Savoie

Great lake

France has a short but pretty shoreline on Lake Geneva, but the true great lake of Gaul is the nine-mile-long, two-mile-wide Lac d’Annecy. The cleanest lake in Europe — it’s so pure you can officially drink its waters — has an area of 97 acres running north-south from the delightful town of Annecy in the country’s Haute-Savoie département, part of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.

WORK • Friday Routine

On tap

THIBAULT LAMARQUE • founder, CEO • Castalie
Neighborhood you work & live in: Boulogne-Billancourt

It’s Friday afternoon. How are you approaching the weekend?
I founded Castalie 15 years ago, so life is very different from what it was in the early days. Fridays are usually a little more relaxed for me now. I’ll often have lunch out, then keep the afternoon free of meetings. It’s a chance to make a few phone calls, take a step back, and ease into the weekend.

Castalie was born from a simple idea: offering a sustainable alternative to bottled water. We design and manufacture premium water systems that filter, chill, and carbonate tap water, allowing hotels, restaurants, and businesses to serve exceptional water while eliminating the waste and transport associated with plastic and glass bottles. Sustainability has always been at the heart of what we do, but so has design and the quality of the experience.

What’s on the agenda these days?
We’re at a particularly exciting stage in Castalie’s journey. In France, we’ve reached a significant scale and built a strong presence across hospitality, corporate spaces, and some of the country’s most respected establishments. The focus now is on international expansion.

I’ve recently spent time in Morocco, Switzerland, Belgium, and the Netherlands. Morocco has been especially exciting because it reminds me of what France felt like 15 years ago when I was first building Castalie. In some ways, I feel like I’m rediscovering my job.

What I truly enjoy is the emergence of their bistronomy scene. There have always been excellent restaurants in Morocco, but a new generation of chefs is now creating something different. We recently worked with Le Petit Cornichon in Marrakech — which is part of the country’s exciting new culinary movement — and I’m also a great admirer of Farmers, a restaurant built around its own farm and a deeply local approach to food. Many of these restaurants are becoming Castalie clients, which is incredibly rewarding.

My role has changed enormously over the years. In France, we now have 120 employees, a managing director, and well-established teams. Today, my job is much more about meeting entrepreneurs, chefs, and distributors abroad who share our values. I recently met a Moroccan distributor who was drawn to Castalie for both our environmental commitment and our product design. We chose to work with him because he shares our obsession with quality and attention to detail.

Any restaurant plans today, tonight or this weekend?
I do enjoy great restaurants, of course. I recently dined at David Toutain, for example. But despite appearances, I don’t spend all my time in fine dining establishments. My real local canteen is Bonnotte in Boulogne. The chef, Manon Negretti, is fantastic. She’s deeply committed to sustainability, and her menu changes constantly depending on what arrives that day. I’m a vegetarian, and even when there isn’t a vegetarian dish on the menu, she’ll always create something for me based on the ingredients she has available. And everyone should try her chocolate soufflé. I also have a weekly ritual with my daughter. Every Wednesday at lunchtime, before taking her to basketball practice, we have lunch together at a small Japanese restaurant called Shiki. It’s become our special tradition.

Closer to home, I also love Morieux bakery in Boulogne. It’s wonderfully simple but exceptional in quality. The breads are outstanding, and the pastries feel honest and uncomplicated. I must admit I’ve grown a little tired of overly elaborate desserts.

Another place that means a lot to me is one of my Parisian canteens, which also happens to have been Castalie’s very first client, La Robe et le Palais. It’s the kind of place I’ve remained loyal to over the years.

What about culture and leisure?
Like many parents of young children, we often try to combine activities that the whole family can enjoy. A typical weekend might include something for the kids, while also making sure we stop at a great restaurant along the way. We’re heading away as a family this weekend and will be stopping for dinner at Christophe Hay‘s restaurant in the Loire Valley before spending the weekend at Beauval Zoo with the children.

Any favourite escapes or weekend getaways?
I absolutely love Brittany. We spend many of our holidays in Port-Manec’h, and it’s where I truly disconnect. I go boating, spend time by the sea, and return to some favourite addresses year after year. One of them is Les Trois Buis in Pont-Aven. During Covid, they kept going when many others couldn’t, and I’ve remained very attached to the place. It’s also where I discovered a langoustine ravioli recipe that I now love making at home. I don’t eat fish, but langoustines are my one exception. Pont-Aven itself is a beautiful town with a rich artistic history and a very special atmosphere. And then there’s a seafood restaurant called Les Viviers on the Glénan Islands that brings back wonderful memories of boat trips and summers in Brittany. Those are often the places that stay with you the longest.

More recently, after a business trip to Morocco, my wife and children joined me in Marrakech, and we spent three days together there. One unforgettable experience was the A Thousand Lights dinner at Les Deux Tours hotel. Every evening, only one table is reserved in a secluded garden illuminated by hundreds of candles. Whether you’re dining with friends or as a couple, as we did, it’s a magical experience.

What were your most recent great holidays?
Sri Lanka, an extraordinary country. The food is fantastic, the people are incredibly welcoming, and it’s a very family-friendly destination. Because of the disruption to air travel caused by events in the Middle East, we unexpectedly stayed an additional 15 days. In the end, it became my longest holiday in nearly 20 years. I particularly loved the cuisine, which is naturally very plant-based and full of fruits, vegetables, and spices. One of my highlights was Gini in Colombo, a wonderful example of Sri Lankan bistronomy. The food is creative, generous, and deeply rooted in local traditions. They also have a few rooms, making it a lovely place to stay.

What’s the last significant purchase you’re really happy with?
Without hesitation, my electric bike. Actually, I own two: a Moustache and a Riese & Müller. The Riese & Müller is a longtail model that allows me to carry both of my children on the back. It’s incredibly practical and genuinely improves my day every time I use it to take them to school.

Which shop or service do you always recommend?
I’m not much of a shopper, and I tend to dress exactly the same way all the time. That said, I do have a tailor I really like: Gambler, near La Madeleine in Paris. I no longer wear suits, but I have relaxed, made-to-measure jackets made there.

One thing I am extremely particular about is olive oil, and I often buy oils from Alexis Muñoz.

But the service I probably recommend most often these days is Le Fourgon. It’s a brilliant circular-economy concept: they deliver products to your home in reusable glass containers — everything from olive oil to drinks and household staples — and collect the empty containers during the next delivery so they can be washed and reused. It’s exactly the kind of system I believe in and is very much aligned with the philosophy behind Castalie.

GOODS & SERVICES • The Nines

Mineral water, French

• L’Eau Vertueuse Velleminfroy, virtuous calcium-rich water, one of the purest bottled waters in France, often found in Burgundy and Franche-Comté

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Summer swimwear

• Vilebrequin, (6th & 8th arr), high-end luxury resort swimwear rooted in Saint-Tropez summer beach culture, colorful printed trunks w/ matching tops to stand out

• ERES, (4th, 6th, 7th, 8th arr), handmade in Paris studio, high-end women’s swimwear and loungewear that probably won’t make it far from hotel pool

• Pain de Sucre, (6th arr), hailing from Marseille, independent maker of women’s couture swimwear w/ current trendy styles and French Riviera vibe

• Apnée, eco-responsible swimwear for men, women, and children, check out their line of 100% recycled SEAQUAL trunks

• Dolla (8th arr, above), consciously made luxurious bikinis and accessories inspired by Mediterranean resort nostalgia, made in Europe

• Poolday, reasonably priced, chic, for men and women, sustainably manufactured, for all body sizes and types

• Casa Rosa, created by young Franco-Italian designer Carlotto Rosio, bold bikinis inspired by the ‘70s and her chic Italian grandmother

• Gili’s, (3rd & 6th arr), planet-conscious recycled swimwear for the whole family, made in Portugal and built to resist salt, sun, chlorine

• Rivea, 100% eco-friendly, fashionable men’s swimwear inspired as much by classic French cinema as by the world’s iconic beaches

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

Island cuisine

On the edge of the Lac Inférieur sits one of Paris’s strangest, most charming restaurants, Le Chalet des Îles. Legend has it the building originated as a Swiss chalet gifted by Napoleon III to Empress Eugénie, then dismantled and rebuilt on this tiny island. Whether any of it’s true hardly matters — the place feels improbable enough to deserve the myth.

Part of the charm is the approach. You don’t simply walk into Chalet des Îles; you take a small, covered raft across the water. For a few minutes, it becomes oddly easy to forget that the Champs-Élysées is only a short drive away. The illusion is even better on the return trip after a couple of well-made Negronis or Old Fashioneds.

The food is not trying to reinvent gastronomy, which is precisely the point. Pierre Chomet, of French Top Chef fame, has shaped a menu of polished comfort for the well-heeled locals who treat the Chalet as an extension of their living room: beef fillet with Béarnaise sauce and fries, sea bream with beurre blanc and peas, burrata and strawberries, and other crowd-pleasers executed with care.

The crowd is half the spectacle. Expect taut-skinned Hermès-clutching ladies from the 16th with their glossy offspring in tow, alongside curious tourists and Parisians chasing the fantasy of a countryside escape without actually leaving Paris. In a city obsessed with novelty, Chalet des Îles offers something rarer: old-fashioned escapism. –Adrian Moore

→ Le Chalet des Iles (16th arr) • 14 Chemin de Ceinture du Lac Inférieur du Bois de Boulogne • Restaurant Mon-Sat 12h-14h30 & 19h-22h30 • Bar daily from 16h-1h30 • Book.

RESTAURANTS • Water Service

Poppin’ bottles

The waters French sommeliers pour with fine dining.

Water, like wine, has its own terroir. It can be paired with food rather than treated as a neutral background. It has origin stories, distinct textures, varied mineral profiles, and even some of the world’s top sommeliers are taking notice.

Although nonalcoholic pairings with teas, infusions, ferments, and juices have been part of the conversation for some time, diners are just beginning to understand that water is no longer simply what fills the gap between courses. it’s become part of the meal’s architecture. To understand more, FOUND asked some of Paris’ leading sommeliers which mineral waters they like to serve — and what they bring to the table. Here, in their own words, are their selections. –Adrian Moore

THONON: There is a kind of wisdom in the choice of the water we bring to our lips. Thonon water is, first and foremost, a delicacy. It is much more than neutrality. It’s an open door onto the Alps, carrying with it the image of high-altitude springs, of eternal snows slowly filtering through rock, of landscapes where the air is thin and the sky immense. Each glass becomes a moment of escape, a pause in the mountains.

To drink Thonon is to encounter purity without compromise. Low in minerals, it doesn’t speak when food and wine should speak. It remains discreet, self-effacing even, a confidante rather than a rival. With it, a sauvignon blanc loses none of its acidity; meat is not altered by saline residue; the spices in a dish keep their true intensity. It is a water that listens, without ever imposing its presence. It also symbolizes what we often seek when eating well: refreshment.

→ DAVID BIRAUD, sommelier and director of KEDGE Wine School (Paris & Bordeaux)

TREIGNAC: Coming from the mountains of Corrèze, Treignac water won me over with its original purity and mineral balance, which make it, for me, a discreet yet precious ally at the table. It is lightly mineralized and accompanies dishes without altering their flavors, while contributing to light, everyday hydration. On restaurant menus, it therefore embodies an elegant approach to mineral water, where well-being and respect for taste meet gastronomic standards.

For me, mineral waters are an integral part of the guest experience. Because beyond simply quenching thirst, water should also provide essential minerals for our bodies.

→ Florian Guilloteau, wine director of Le Ritz Paris and head sommelier at L’Espadon

ABATILLES: Abatilles is a water of great purity, with an extremely delicate taste, which means it does not alter the aromatic perception of the dishes or the wine. The sparkling version has pleasant, fine bubbles. As I am from Bordeaux myself, I am particularly attached to this water, which comes from Arcachon. Finally, its glass-bottle packaging, both elegant and understated, corresponds perfectly to the aesthetic of our restaurant.

→ Quentin Loisel, chef, sommelier, & owner, Cypsèle, Paris

CHATELDON & MONTARCHER: Chateldon, with its naturally fine bubbles and elegant minerality, pairs beautifully with seafood, caviar and grand French gastronomy. Montarcher, a natural spring water sourced at an altitude of 1,150 meters in the Loire mountains, stands out for its purity, balance and delicacy. It is an ideal match for contemporary cuisine, fine fish dishes and vegetable-led cooking.

Together, these two waters illustrate two complementary approaches to pairing food and water: one based on texture and complexity, the other on purity and precision. As we often say in gastronomy: Harmony can also be the little sister of boredom. The best pairings are not always built on similarity; a slight contrast can sometimes create a more memorable and more emotional experience.

→ Kim Jin, water sommelière and fine dining consultant, WATERSHOP in Paris, one of the largest purveyors of luxury waters in the world

GETAWAYS • Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur

A bed on the Med

On a storied private island less than 10 minutes from the Mediterranean port of Bandol, Zannier Île de Bendor reopened after a meticulous renovation. It’s this summer’s perfect long weekend destination in France.

BARS • The Nines

Bars, on the water

The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Paid subscribers access the complete Nines archive.

• Petit Bain (13th arr), tri-level floating barge with restaurant, leafy terrace, and 450-person concert space, open for lunch, happy hour, dinner

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Some mornings feel ordinary. And then there are mornings when you sit down in a cozy Paris tearoom, and the world suddenly turns soft, sweet, and theatrical. I discovered Violetta & Alfredo on one of those mornings, and haven’t stopped thinking about it since.

Inspired by Verdi’s La Traviata, it’s a small, charming tea salon dressed up beautifully: colourful Alsatian porcelain, a refined operatic touch, sunlit outdoor tables in summer, and a crackling fireplace in winter.

Now, the pancakes. These are Violetta & Alfredo’s own creations, born from comfort, childhood nostalgia, and a hint of Breton charm, and they are extraordinary. Fluffy like little clouds, the pancakes arrive warm. Caramelised apples melt into the stack. Salted butter caramel ribbons over the edges. A buckwheat crumble crackles with each bite, evoking Brittany and its rustic soul. And then, a mascarpone whipped cream so light it barely lands on the spoon.

I should mention: this place draws serious talent. Sopranos Pretty Yende, Marina Viotti and Adriana Gonzalez have all passed through, the latter two presenting albums, occasionally breaking into spontaneous performance. Regulars like me still talk about it.

I tried an indulgent cheddar toast last visit (wonderfully satisfying) and watched my friend devour an avocado toast. Then came those fluffy pancakes again, this time crowned with blueberries, raspberries, mascarpone, vanilla cream, and raspberry coulis.

And the tea, what a discovery. Their Assam is among the finest I’ve ever tasted. The boutique sells a marvellous range, perfect as gifts. –Hanae Verlinde

→ Violetta & Alfredo (9th arr) • 30 Rue de Trévise • Daily 10h-19h • Walk-ins only.

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Steps away from the Bourse de Commerce, there is a place where professional kitchens, ambitious home cooks, and culinary history have been crossing paths for more than two centuries.

Established on Rue Coquillière in 1820, E. Dehillerin began as a collection of small shops selling kitchen equipment. In 1890, Eugène Dehillerin brought them together under a single roof, creating a legendary address still standing today. Originally supplying food professionals and kitchens of wealthy households, the company gradually expanded into refrigeration and industrial cooking equipment. With workshops on the outskirts of Paris employing more than a hundred people, its reputation grew so much that in 1930 it was entrusted with designing the kitchens of the famed ocean liner Normandie. Remarkably, the store remains in the hands of the Dehillerin family eight generations later.

Stepping inside feels like stepping slightly outside of time. Staff dressed in green coats embroidered with the house name in yellow move briskly through the aisles, guiding customers through what is, at first glance, a wonderfully overwhelming maze. Finding what you are looking for is something of a treasure hunt. Laminated binders hang throughout the store, listing prices by category rather than displaying them directly. To know the cost of a knife, a copper saucepan, or a pastry mould, you first need to locate its reference number and then track it down in the corresponding catalogue.

The narrow aisles require a certain choreography. You negotiate passage around fellow shoppers to inspect a fish spatula, squeeze past someone comparing stockpots, or circle towering wooden shelves that rise nearly five metres high. Every available inch seems occupied by kitchen tools.

There are copper pans large enough to feed a regiment, tiny animal-shaped moulds, professional-grade pastry equipment, precision tools, storage containers, carving knives, and ladles in every conceivable size and shape. Some pieces feel as though they belong in a museum, while others represent the latest evolution of a centuries-old craft.

What makes Dehillerin so compelling is that it never feels curated for nostalgia. It remains, first and foremost, a working shop. Professionals come here because they need reliable tools. Home cooks come because they dream of becoming just a little more professional. You may arrive looking for a simple paring knife, and leave an hour later having considered an entire batterie de cuisine. –Candice Chemel

→ E. Dehillerin (1st arr) • 18-20 rue Coquillière • Mon 9h-12h30 & 14h-16h, Tue-Sat 9h-19h.

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Today, three new PROMPTS for which we seek your brilliance:

• What’s your favorite specialty bookstore in Paris?

• I need a caterer for a casual summer gathering. Any ideas?

• What Paris store or service do you love to recommend?

REAL ESTATE • On the Market

Three properties for sale around Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the 6th arr:

→ Place de Furstemberg (metro Mabillon) • 3BR/3BA, 170 m2 apartment • Ask: 3.275M € • ‘urban chalet’ on top floor of Lefèvre d’Ormesson private mansion, with views over Paris rooftops • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 4492 € • Agent: Olga Khripkova, Engel & Völkers.

→ Croix Rouge/Bon Marche (metro Saint-Sulpice) • 2BR/1.2BA, 130 m2 apartment • Ask: 3.49M € • 3rd-floor corner flat w/ rotunda-style dining room and eat-in kitchen • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 4956 € • Agent: Barnes.

→ Bonaparte/Saint Germain des Prés (metro Saint-Germain-des-Prés, above) • 4BR/3BA, 200 m2 apartment • Ask: 6M € • perfect-condition triplex on building’s top floors, with multiple terraces and balconies • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 7200 € • Agent: Delphine Cohen d’aynac, Daniel Feau.

GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Shop

Kitchen treasures

Steps away from the Bourse de Commerce, there is a place where professional kitchens, ambitious home cooks, and culinary history have been crossing paths for more than two centuries.

Established on Rue Coquillière in 1820, E. Dehillerin began as a collection of small shops selling kitchen equipment. In 1890, Eugène Dehillerin brought them together under a single roof, creating a legendary address still standing today. Originally supplying food professionals and kitchens of wealthy households, the company gradually expanded into refrigeration and industrial cooking equipment. With workshops on the outskirts of Paris employing more than a hundred people, its reputation grew so much that in 1930 it was entrusted with designing the kitchens of the famed ocean liner Normandie. Remarkably, the store remains in the hands of the Dehillerin family eight generations later.

Stepping inside feels like stepping slightly outside of time. Staff dressed in green coats embroidered with the house name in yellow move briskly through the aisles, guiding customers through what is, at first glance, a wonderfully overwhelming maze. Finding what you are looking for is something of a treasure hunt. Laminated binders hang throughout the store, listing prices by category rather than displaying them directly. To know the cost of a knife, a copper saucepan, or a pastry mould, you first need to locate its reference number and then track it down in the corresponding catalogue.

The narrow aisles require a certain choreography. You negotiate passage around fellow shoppers to inspect a fish spatula, squeeze past someone comparing stockpots, or circle towering wooden shelves that rise nearly five metres high. Every available inch seems occupied by kitchen tools.

There are copper pans large enough to feed a regiment, tiny animal-shaped moulds, professional-grade pastry equipment, precision tools, storage containers, carving knives, and ladles in every conceivable size and shape. Some pieces feel as though they belong in a museum, while others represent the latest evolution of a centuries-old craft.

What makes Dehillerin so compelling is that it never feels curated for nostalgia. It remains, first and foremost, a working shop. Professionals come here because they need reliable tools. Home cooks come because they dream of becoming just a little more professional. You may arrive looking for a simple paring knife, and leave an hour later having considered an entire batterie de cuisine. –Candice Chemel

→ E. Dehillerin (1st arr) • 18-20 rue Coquillière • Mon 9h-12h30 & 14h-16h, Tue-Sat 9h-19h.

PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: A short guide to the Paris music scene • Floating bookshop Nanna opens under Notre-Dame • JR’s The Cave finally welcomes the public • Seven months in, BHV ends controversial partnership with Shein • How two families have maintained grip on Paris food markets for decades • Chatting with Alexis Lissitzky and Claire Grumellon, duo behind Lissit in the 11th • 100 deep-cut tips for living in Paris.

GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Café

Cloud nine

Some mornings feel ordinary. And then there are mornings when you sit down in a cozy Paris tearoom, and the world suddenly turns soft, sweet, and theatrical. I discovered Violetta & Alfredo on one of those mornings, and haven’t stopped thinking about it since.

CULTURE & LEISURE • La Fête

• France v Iraq • Lincoln Financial Field (Philadelphia, PA) • Mon @ 17h • sec 101, 2248 € per (832 € lowest avail)

• HolyBrune • Le Trianon (18th arr) • Fri @ 21h • GA, 32 € per

• Mehdi Maïzi • La Fête de la Musique • L’Olympia (9th arr) • Sun @ 20h • GA, free

RESTAURANTS & BARS • The Nines

Fête de la Musique, eating and drinking

The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Paid subscribers access the complete Nines archive.

• Le Pigalle (9th arr), edgy South Pigalle hotel w/ artsy soul, Courir x Crocs collab, photo booth, Amusez-Vous DJ sets, live performance from Star Academy finalist Ebony Cham

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The Skinny: It’s a family affair at BẾP. Marie Nguyen and Émilien Quéméner, the duo behind Montmartre natural wine bar Sobremesa, have teamed up with Marie’s brother, chef Antoine Nguyen, to open the Vietnamese restaurant in the 9th arrondissement, a neighborhood that has never been a particular hotspot for Vietnamese food. It debuted in April.

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It’s been a long time since Paris had a restaurant that reigned as the city’s Big Room, that white-hot, popular-but-exclusive place where the crowd offers a working definition of Those Who Make The City Cool. But this season, dine there enough times, and you’ll spot everyone interesting in Paris come through Le Restaurant.

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• Caractère de Cochon (3rd arr), one of best jambon-beurre in town with wide choice of different regional hams and associated pork products

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It scene

It’s been a long time since Paris had a restaurant that reigned as the city’s Big Room, that white-hot, popular-but-exclusive place where the crowd offers a working definition of Those Who Make The City Cool. But this season, dine there enough times, and you’ll spot everyone interesting in Paris come through Le Restaurant.

Designed by Studio KO, the hottest interior design firm in Paris, the great moody décor of this intimate dining room in the just-opened Bus Palladium hotel gets its wonderfully odd visual DNA from an elision of Tom Jones and Sid Vicious, or that raggedy time period in Paris when disco and punk rock overlapped for a while. This is because the Bus Palladium, now a 35-room five-star hotel in increasingly gentrified Pigalle, was one of the best and most enduringly avant-garde nightclubs in Paris from its original opening in 1965 to 2022 when it closed.

Salvador Dali once showed up here with a panther on a leash, the Rolling Stones played here, and Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin were regulars, and the crowd was a high-voltage mix of aristocrats, rockers, punk-rockers, suburban kids, artists, and fashion designers, along with a tonifying dose of riffraff.

Now, in addition to the sexy party-pad rooms upstairs and a revived club in the basement, the reason Parisians are flocking here is to discover the cooking of young chef Valentin Raffali, who was recruited from his restaurant Livingston in Marseille to run the kitchen here. Luscious and luminously beautiful, Franco-Moroccan Raffali’s cooking has a poignancy that comes from his deep desire to please and the way his culinary creativity is disciplined by an exacting technical precision.

The menu changes according to the season and what’s best in the markets, consistently reflecting Raffali’s fascination with unexpected flavors and textures. Standouts at the moment include trout with nasturtium flowers, rhubarb water, aloe vera, and verjus; tart Tatin of girolles mushrooms with haricots vert and salted apricots; Thai style pig’s feet; and, for dessert, a braided donut with blueberries and almond ice cream. –Alexander Lobrano

→ Bus Palladium Hotel (9th arr) • 6 Rue Pierre Fontaine • Book a room, book a table.

PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: Legendary Left Bank cinema Le Saint-Germain-des-Prés reopened last week, with an assist from Chanel • NYC-based real estate brokerage Douglas Elliman expands to Paris • Lee Krasner will make Paris debut via Gagosian, Olney Gleason this October • French furniture designer Erik Schmitt talks taste • Kinda-kid friendly Paris dining recommendations • Ode to the Paris cinema.

REAL ESTATE • On the Market

Three properties for sale around Enfants-Rouges in the 3rd arr:

→ Square du Temple (metro Temple) • 3BR/3BA, 150 m2 apartment • Ask: 2.79M € • character charm in 1890 building, sold fully furnished • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 7440 € • Agent: Charlotte Mantel, Paris Ouest Sotheby’s.

→ Enfants-Rouges (metro République) • 5BR/3BA, 204 m2 apartment • Ask: 3.6M € • third-floor flat with 3m ceilings, preserved mouldings, parquet floors, and fireplaces • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 5989 € • Agent: Caroline Baudry, Barnes.

→ Square du Temple (metro Temple, above) • 5BR/3BA, 383 m2 apartment • Ask: 3.99M € • massive triplex with five suites, each with bedroom and bathroom, plus home cinema and indoor swimming pool • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 21,392 € • Agent: Nelson Ariowitsch, Barnes.

RESTAURANTS • First Word

Bowled over

The Skinny: It’s a family affair at BẾP. Marie Nguyen and Émilien Quéméner, the duo behind Montmartre natural wine bar Sobremesa, have teamed up with Marie’s brother, chef Antoine Nguyen, to open the Vietnamese restaurant in the 9th arrondissement, a neighborhood that has never been a particular hotspot for Vietnamese food. It debuted in April.

The Vibe: Casual and chill, with raw concrete block walls, no tablecloths, and a brushed metal bar at the center. You can pop into BẾP for a quick lunch, or book ahead for a laid-back group dinner, tasting your way through as many dishes as possible. It’s also a solid apéro option, a chance to break out of the usual wine-and-charcuterie or œufs mayo routine.

The Food: At lunch, the focus is on comforting bowls. My companion ordered the cơm tấm pork: grilled pork shoulder with bì chả (shredded pork and toasted rice powder), pickles, cucumber, and rice. Running on nothing more than a sad breakfast smoothie, he added a savory slice of chả trứng, a traditional Vietnamese terrine I went with the veggie version, com tam végé, which was essentially the same with the pork swapped for oyster mushrooms grilled shish-kebab style, their edges caramelized to perfection.

Dinner offers more to taste: snacky dishes like gà chiên, crispy fried chicken lacquered with a savory-sweet nước mắm glaze, and bò tái chanh, a bright Vietnamese-style beef carpaccio dressed with fresh herbs, peanuts, fried onions, lime, and chili oil. Mains are served with rice vermicelli, rice paper, pickles, and fresh herbs and feature crisp-skinned roasted pork belly or a fried fish of the day, served whole for sharing.

The Drink: The wine list is a draw for neo-bistro-loving Parisians. Émilien, whose family founded a wine-tasting club in Brittany, looks after the beverages, including carefully chosen natural wines (by the glass or bottle) and Vietnamese specialties like cà phê sữa đá, Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk on ice or trà xanh 0° (không dộ), iced green tea sweetened by cane sugar. There’s also Saigon beer, and cocktails like a Thai basil smash with gin, lime, and the fresh, fragrant herb.

The Verdict: A comfort-food lunch spot that won’t end the workday the way a classic French bistro can, or a hopping place to meet friends at night for tasty Vietnamese dishes and unexpected wines. –Caitlin Gunther

→ BẾP (9th arr) • 49 rue Marguerite de Rochechouart • Tue-Fri 12h-15h & 19h-23h, Sat 19h-23h • Book.

CULTURE & LEISURE • Le Mondial

• France v Senegal • MetLife Stadium (East Rutherford, NJ) • Tue @ 15h • sec 139, 2057 € per (703 € lowest avail)

• Aldous Harding • Le Trianon (18th arr) • Fri @ 20h • carre or, 44 € per

• Counting Crows• L’Olympia (9th arr) • 12/06 @ 20h • orchestra, 113 € per

GETAWAYS LINKS: On the market in Alsace: a former church blessed with divine stained glass • Sneak peeking London’s St. Clement hotel, soft opening now and fully in September • Inside Mandarin Oriental’s luxe new Mallorca resort.

ASK FOUND

First, a quick reminder on how this works: You send us the pressing questions of the day (on hotels, dining, travel). We all put our heads together (us, FOUND, + you, FOUND subscribers, who are also FOUND) in search of truth and beauty.

Today, three PROMPTS for which we seek your immediate attention

• Who’s your favorite Parisian florist?

• What’s your go-to spot for jewelry repair?

• Oyster Week is in the books. What should FOUND’s next theme week be?

Got answers or more questions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.

GOODS & SERVICES • The Nines

Sandwiches, Right Bank

The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Paid subscribers access the complete Nines archive.

• Caractère de Cochon (3rd arr), one of best jambon-beurre in town with wide choice of different regional hams and associated pork products

Read more

Making waves

QUENTIN GARREAU DE LA BARRE • co-founder and director of operations • Fuga
Neighborhood you live in: 12th arr

It’s Friday afternoon. How are you rolling into the weekend?
Across from the Grand Palais, at the foot of Pont Alexandre III, our floating restaurant Riviera Fuga is slowly waking up. The Seine is like glass: no waves, no boats, just a handful of ducks swimming upstream. It’s the calm before the storm.

Everyone is getting busy preparing for lunch service. The cooks are receiving and checking deliveries on the quay; others are already at the stoves, prepping for what promises to be a full house. The bartender is zesting oranges for spritzes, while the servers check their stations and fill wine buckets with ice. We’re getting ready for our pre-service briefing. Today’s menu: as a starter, sea bream sashimi with ponzu nashi and tamarind; as a main, homemade gnocchi with yuzu mascarpone sauce and basil; and for dessert, our legendary brioche perdue with miso caramel and ricotta ice cream.

What’s on the agenda for today?
We kick off the day at Riviera Fuga with a debrief of yesterday’s service by the front- and back-of-house teams. Lunch tasting at Laïa, our Mediterranean bistro tucked away in a garden on Boulevard Voltaire, in the 11th arrondissement, with a rooftop vegetable garden. The cuisine is inspired by southern France, Spain, and Italy. We’ll be trying several Laïazzas, the house specialty, delicious gourmet sourdough pizzette made for sharing. We’ll also have grilled octopus cooked on a robata with smoked aioli and green vegetables.

The day continues in the 8th arrondissement with a site visit. We’re just about to open a new rooftop, Fuga R, steps from Parc Monceau [opened last month! –ed.]

Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?

• Otto, Rue Mouffetard in the 5th, a wine bar with shared plates, a great vibe, and a beautiful wine list

• Spiti Sou, Quai des Grands Augustins in the 6th, a Greek restaurant with a lovely, softly lit ambiance and amazing dishes

• Shabour, Rue Saint-Sauveur in the 2nd, Israeli cuisine at the counter

Any weekend getaways?
For dinner: Le Doyenné in Saint-Vrain, a restaurant-farm-garden just outside Paris, run by two Australian chefs. For nature: the 25-Bump Trail in the Fontainebleau forest, a sporty eight-hour hike. Don’t miss the Cul de Chien sands! Thirty million years ago, a warm ocean covered the area, leaving quartz deposits that eventually disintegrated into sand. For lunch: aperitif at the Auberge de la Dame Jouanne, in the heart of the Fontainebleau forest.

What was your last great vacation?
Cap Corse on Corsica for Genoese towers, old American houses, trails through maquis and along the sea, wild beaches, hidden coves, and exceptional villages.

PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: JR’s installation La Caverne du Pont Neuf, scheduled to open tomorrow, delayed by wind damage • ‘Dig of the Century’ underneath Notre Dame unearths relics stretching back 2000 years • How France’s World Cup players are upping the game on personal style • Ode to the Paris cinema • What’s next for PSG?

REAL ESTATE • On the Market

Three properties for sale around Auteuil in the 16th arr:

→ Raffet / Montmorency (metro Jasmin) • 4BR/3.1BA, 270 m² duplex • Ask: 5.9M € • Penthouse spanning 10th and 11th floors of grand mid-20th century building, 150m² of terraces w/ panoramic views of Eiffel Tower and Paris skyline • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 19,520 € • Agent: Frédéric Van Wemmel, Daniel Feau.

→ Villa Montmorency (metro Jasmin, above) • 5BR/3.5BA, 250 m² townhouse • Ask: 7.5M € • in most discreet part of Villa Montmorency private enclave, renovated 4-level family home w/ garden • Annual maintenance/condo fees: N/A • Agent: Frédéric Van Wemmel, Daniel Feau.

→ Auteuil (metro Chardon Lagache) • 8BR/4BA, 498 m² mansion • Ask: 24.9M € • massive property including 3-level townhouse and separate guest house, plus fitness room, massage room, hammam, and garden • Annual maintenance/condo fees: N/A • Agent: Juliette Chavane, Barnes.

CULTURE & LEISURE • Last Seats

• Ercole amante • Palais Garnier (9th arr) • Fri @ 1930h • optima, 175 € per

• Fabrice Eboué • Le Trianon (18th arr) • Sat @ 20h • cat 2, 55 € per

• The Streets • Salle Pleyel (18th arr) • Mon @ 20h • carre or, 66 € per

GETAWAYS • The Nines

Wine bars, Burgundy

The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Paid subscribers access the complete Nines archive.

• La Dilettante (Beaune), beloved industry hotspot for organic and natural wines, French and Asian-inspired small plates

• Le Soleil (Savigny-lès-Beaune), charming bistro-wine bar, spacious outdoor seating serving natural wines and contemporary plates with Asian, Italian, and Moroccan influences

• Chez Bruno (Dijon), personality-driven spot in heart of Dijon w/ 850+ wine references, hand-carved cheese and charcuterie boards

• La Cuverie de Vosne (Vosne-Romanée), wine bar, organic grocery, and auberge founded by Liger-Belair family w/ 1000+ organic and biodynamic wine references,

• Crème (Beaune, above), café by day, natural wine bar by night, go-to hangout for region’s young winemakers

• La Cave du Centre (Chagny), natural wine bar and cave à manger 15 minutes south of Beaune, founded by natural wine writer Aaron Ayscough

• Chablis Wine Not (Chablis), wine shop, tasting bar, and restaurant in 3-level space w/ with 1500+ references (many from Chablis and elsewhere in Burgundy)

• Maison du Colombier (Beaune), cozy wine bar with extensive selections of 1500+ references plus tapas situated in a historic 16th-century building stone’s throw from Hospices de Beaune

• Le Monde d’Après (Dijon), low key, hole-in-the-wall natural wine bar in heart of Dijon, rotating curated selections based on owner’s current discoveries

GETAWAYS LINKS: Checking in at the just-reopened Chateau la Commaraine in Pommard • Hotel Hubertos unveils new spa experiences in the heart of the Dolomites • Lisbon’s Casa do Dafundo is a true passion project.

ASK FOUND

Today, three PROMPTS for which we seek your immediate attention

• Who’s your favorite Parisian florist?

• What’s your go-to spot for jewelry repair?

• Oyster Week is in the books. What should FOUND’s next theme week be?

Got answers or more questions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

Art of craft

A few blocks from the Seine, on Rue Mazarine, there’s almost always a line out front of Kodawari Ramen. Don’t let it deter you.

Read more

• JJ Hings (10th arr, above), canal-side ice cream made w/ seasonal fruit and daily fresh cones, owner Julia trained as a pastry chef at Ten Belles

Read more

In the picturesque village of Kaysersberg, among colorful half-timbered houses, the building housing Le Chambard is a velvety red anchor. Inside, in a subdued, intimate atmosphere, a handful of tables are set for afternoon tea. Beige carpet, marble, raw wood. The staff, dressed in pale blue uniforms, bring a subtle Wes Anderson-esque touch to the scene.

Le Chambard is, of course, first known for its gastronomic restaurant, La Table d’Olivier Nasti, its winstub, hotel, and spa. Le Salon, the tea room, is a more recent addition, but it fits seamlessly into the wider experience. Here, choose between a six- or nine-step marche gourmande, a breakfast offering, a savory menu, as well as pastries and viennoiseries displayed at the counter. The pastry selection evolves with the seasons and the foraging of pastry chef Jordan Gasco.

On this visit, we opted for the six-step marche gourmande. It begins with drinks selected by head sommelier Jean-Baptiste Klein, who sources rare, precious teas from around the world: today, a comforting roasted hojicha alongside a rhubarb and fig leaf infusion, bright and slightly vegetal. Then, a pastry chef arrives carrying an immense deer antler, from which small wooden platforms emerge like oyster mushrooms, each holding a different creation:

• Savoury fleischnacka, a traditional Alsatian dish of meat rolled into a noodle dough, here filled with venison, served with a reduced wild boar jus — gamey, precise, almost forest-like. All of the game meat is hunted by chef Nasti and his friends.

• A confited butternut squash tartlet, lifted by kalamansi and a raw cream infused with lemon balm.

• A delicate chestnut torch, paired with foraged rosehip.

• A tartelette built around Buddha’s hand, blood orange, kalamansi, Swiss meringue with yuzu and finger lime, finished with a touch of gold leaf — bright, sharp, almost electric.

• Swiss-style cake with Piedmont hazelnuts, caramel, and chocolate follows — round, comforting, grounding the sequence.

Everything is executed with remarkable precision, both in presentation and in flavor. The progression, from savory to sweet, unfolds like a gentle walk through the forest. Even the tableware plays its part: delicate Kinto glass cups, thin and almost weightless against the lips.

For the final step, a pastry chef returns to present the last dessert of the journey: coffee baba, with coffee cream, mascarpone ice cream, hazelnut praline, and freshly grated hazelnuts.

The service is quietly flawless. One guest mentions she doesn’t like coffee and her dessert is instantly replaced with a beautiful vanilla entremets, without hesitation or disruption. Like everything that preceded it, it’s a testament to Le Salon’s pursuit of precision and quiet excellence. –Candice Chemel

→ Le Chambard (Kaysersberg, France) • 9-13 rue du Général de Gaulle • Book.

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ANGELA KONG • owner & experience creator • Bouche & Rori
Neighborhood you work & live in: 11th arr

It’s Friday afternoon. How are you rolling into the weekend?
When everything’s going well at our restaurants, and there are no replacements to handle, we work from Sunday to Thursday, so the last day is always intense. We give it our all to wrap up as many tasks as possible, and be free on Friday and Saturday. It’s a bit of a race, the start of a busy day ahead.

What’s on the agenda for today?
I start with a coffee at Comets or Chanceux, which are on my route between home and the restaurants. I check the weekend reservations, go through Bouche and Rori’s Instagram accounts, then move on to setting up and serving lunch at Rori.

In the afternoon, I have a few meetings, often with both teams, and run some errands in preparation for the weekend. At 6p, I take 20 minutes to calm down for the staff meal before getting ready for the evening service at Bouche. I usually get home around 2a, just in time to take our dog Hero for a quick walk.

Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I love going to Le Dauphin on Fridays. It’s one of my favorite places in the neighborhood, and they have my friend Anthony Salomon’s fish soup on Fridays at noon, which I adore. On Saturdays for lunch, I enjoy Double Dragon, in the 11th, or Mehmet, in the 18th.

What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
My Lemaire croissant bag.

What store or service do you always recommend?
Yvon Lambert bookstore, in the 3rd.

Subscribe now

There are restaurants that stay with you. Not because they make noise, but because they get it right.

Vivide is tucked away in a small street near the Théâtre de l’Atelier in Montmartre. Very quickly, I knew the place would stick with me for a long time. The restaurant’s chefs serve a fully plant-based menu that doesn’t try to convince anyone, let alone lecture them. They just cook. And cook brilliantly. But what I loved started well before the first plate arrived.

The welcome, first. The smiles. The gentleness of the service. The place itself, too: both raw and warm at the same time. And then there’s the counter by the entrance, the theater of it, where a restaurant really breathes. Even seated further back in the dining room, you still feel part of it, as the chefs come out, bring the plates, exchange a glance, a few words, look for your reaction. They’ve muted the hard line between the kitchen and the room, a change diners feel.

But then there’s the menu itself. Vegetables touched by fire and smoke, deep sauces, texture everywhere, and above all: flavor, quite a bit of it. It’s the kind of cooking that quickly makes you forget what’s missing from the plate and focus only on what’s actually there, like chilled mesclun salad with its shallot vinaigrette, an icy jolt, right in the middle of the meal. Or smoked butternut squash, wrapping itself gently around your palate. And then the final little gift: verbena-flavored jelly bears, a throwback of childhood nostalgia, and a totally delightful surprise.

Even the drinks tell a story. Wine has its place, of course, but the homemade non-alcoholic creations often steal the show: fermentations, herbs, and infusions. And then, there’s the incredible bread coming from Union Boulangerie. That bread alone could make you come back.

I left with the very simple feeling that someone created this place not to follow a trend, and not to tick a green box on a menu, but just to give people pleasure. –Rodolphe Pelosse

→ Vivide (Montmartre) • 3 rue Dancourt • Tue-Sat 19h-23h • 7 courses 85 €, wine pairing 50 € • Book.

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→ Batignolles (metro Brochant) • 3BR/2.1BA, 89 m2 • Ask: 1.05M € apartment • fixer-upper on 4th floor with good southern light • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 2640 € • Agent: Hugo Clavié, Barnes.

→ Heart of Batignolles (metro Rome, above) • 3BR/2BA, 124 m2 • Ask: 3.4M € penthouse • top-floor flat with roofdeck that uniquely blends indoors & outdoors, Eiffel Tower and Sacré Coeur views • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 3700 € • Agent: Lisa Guillaume, Engel & Völkers.

→ Martin Luther King Park (metro Brochant) • 4BR/4BA, 167 m2 • Ask: 3.98M € apartment • 9th floor, perfect condition, with huge terrace featuring direct views to Sacré Coeur • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 10,500 € • Agent: Joy Binoche, Daniel Feau.

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Three properties for sale around Battignolles in the 17th arr:

→ Batignolles (metro Brochant) • 3BR/2.1BA, 89 m2 • Ask: 1.05M € apartment • fixer-upper on 4th floor with good southern light • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 2640 € • Agent: Hugo Clavié, Barnes.

→ Heart of Batignolles (metro Rome, above) • 3BR/2BA, 124 m2 • Ask: 3.4M € penthouse • top-floor flat with roofdeck that uniquely blends indoors & outdoors, Eiffel Tower and Sacré Coeur views • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 3700 € • Agent: Lisa Guillaume, Engel & Völkers.

→ Martin Luther King Park (metro Brochant) • 4BR/4BA, 167 m2 • Ask: 3.98M € apartment • 9th floor, perfect condition, with huge terrace featuring direct views to Sacré Coeur • Annual maintenance/condo fees: 10,500 € • Agent: Joy Binoche, Daniel Feau.

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Fertile ground

There are restaurants that stay with you. Not because they make noise, but because they get it right.

Vivide is tucked away in a small street near the Théâtre de l’Atelier in Montmartre. Very quickly, I knew the place would stick with me for a long time. The restaurant’s chefs serve a fully plant-based menu that doesn’t try to convince anyone, let alone lecture them. They just cook. And cook brilliantly. But what I loved started well before the first plate arrived.

The welcome, first. The smiles. The gentleness of the service. The place itself, too: both raw and warm at the same time. And then there’s the counter by the entrance, the theater of it, where a restaurant really breathes. Even seated further back in the dining room, you still feel part of it, as the chefs come out, bring the plates, exchange a glance, a few words, look for your reaction. They’ve muted the hard line between the kitchen and the room, a change diners feel.

But then there’s the menu itself. Vegetables touched by fire and smoke, deep sauces, texture everywhere, and above all: flavor, quite a bit of it. It’s the kind of cooking that quickly makes you forget what’s missing from the plate and focus only on what’s actually there, like chilled mesclun salad with its shallot vinaigrette, an icy jolt, right in the middle of the meal. Or smoked butternut squash, wrapping itself gently around your palate. And then the final little gift: verbena-flavored jelly bears, a throwback of childhood nostalgia, and a totally delightful surprise.

Even the drinks tell a story. Wine has its place, of course, but the homemade non-alcoholic creations often steal the show: fermentations, herbs, and infusions. And then, there’s the incredible bread coming from Union Boulangerie. That bread alone could make you come back.

I left with the very simple feeling that someone created this place not to follow a trend, and not to tick a green box on a menu, but just to give people pleasure. –Rodolphe Pelosse

→ Vivide (Montmartre) • 3 rue Dancourt • Tue-Sat 19h-23h • 7 courses 85 €, wine pairing 50 € • Book.

Subscribe now

WORK • Friday Routine

Amuse-bouche

ANGELA KONG • owner & experience creator • Bouche & Rori
Neighborhood you work & live in: 11th arr

It’s Friday afternoon. How are you rolling into the weekend?
When everything’s going well at our restaurants, and there are no replacements to handle, we work from Sunday to Thursday, so the last day is always intense. We give it our all to wrap up as many tasks as possible, and be free on Friday and Saturday. It’s a bit of a race, the start of a busy day ahead.

What’s on the agenda for today?
I start with a coffee at Comets or Chanceux, which are on my route between home and the restaurants. I check the weekend reservations, go through Bouche and Rori’s Instagram accounts, then move on to setting up and serving lunch at Rori.

In the afternoon, I have a few meetings, often with both teams, and run some errands in preparation for the weekend. At 6p, I take 20 minutes to calm down for the staff meal before getting ready for the evening service at Bouche. I usually get home around 2a, just in time to take our dog Hero for a quick walk.

Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
I love going to Le Dauphin on Fridays. It’s one of my favorite places in the neighborhood, and they have my friend Anthony Salomon’s fish soup on Fridays at noon, which I adore. On Saturdays for lunch, I enjoy Double Dragon, in the 11th, or Mehmet, in the 18th.

What’s a recent big-ticket purchase you love?
My Lemaire croissant bag.

What store or service do you always recommend?
Yvon Lambert bookstore, in the 3rd.

PARIS WORK & PLAY LINKS: French artist JR wraps Pont Neuf as tribute to Christo and Jeanne-Claude… timelapse footage of his inflatable cave install • Chatting with chef Allan Gillery-Pavard, guiding the kitchen at Terra in the Marais • On the French relationship with air.

CULTURE & LEISURE • Stand-up

• Nikki Glaser • Le Trianon (18th arr) • Mon @ 20h • carre or, 49 € per

• John Vincent III • La Maroquinerie (20th arr) • Sat @ 20h • GA, 24 € per

• Gryffin • Elysee Montmartre (Montmartre) • Sat @ 20h • GA, 31 € per

GETAWAYS • Alsace

Tea time

In the picturesque village of Kaysersberg, among colorful half-timbered houses, the building housing Le Chambard is a velvety red anchor. Inside, in a subdued, intimate atmosphere, a handful of tables are set for afternoon tea. Beige carpet, marble, raw wood. The staff, dressed in pale blue uniforms, bring a subtle Wes Anderson-esque touch to the scene.

Le Chambard is, of course, first known for its gastronomic restaurant, La Table d’Olivier Nasti, its winstub, hotel, and spa. Le Salon, the tea room, is a more recent addition, but it fits seamlessly into the wider experience. Here, choose between a six- or nine-step marche gourmande, a breakfast offering, a savory menu, as well as pastries and viennoiseries displayed at the counter. The pastry selection evolves with the seasons and the foraging of pastry chef Jordan Gasco.

On this visit, we opted for the six-step marche gourmande. It begins with drinks selected by head sommelier Jean-Baptiste Klein, who sources rare, precious teas from around the world: today, a comforting roasted hojicha alongside a rhubarb and fig leaf infusion, bright and slightly vegetal. Then, a pastry chef arrives carrying an immense deer antler, from which small wooden platforms emerge like oyster mushrooms, each holding a different creation:

• Savoury fleischnacka, a traditional Alsatian dish of meat rolled into a noodle dough, here filled with venison, served with a reduced wild boar jus — gamey, precise, almost forest-like. All of the game meat is hunted by chef Nasti and his friends.

• A confited butternut squash tartlet, lifted by kalamansi and a raw cream infused with lemon balm.

• A delicate chestnut torch, paired with foraged rosehip.

• A tartelette built around Buddha’s hand, blood orange, kalamansi, Swiss meringue with yuzu and finger lime, finished with a touch of gold leaf — bright, sharp, almost electric.

• Swiss-style cake with Piedmont hazelnuts, caramel, and chocolate follows — round, comforting, grounding the sequence.

Everything is executed with remarkable precision, both in presentation and in flavor. The progression, from savory to sweet, unfolds like a gentle walk through the forest. Even the tableware plays its part: delicate Kinto glass cups, thin and almost weightless against the lips.

For the final step, a pastry chef returns to present the last dessert of the journey: coffee baba, with coffee cream, mascarpone ice cream, hazelnut praline, and freshly grated hazelnuts.

The service is quietly flawless. One guest mentions she doesn’t like coffee and her dessert is instantly replaced with a beautiful vanilla entremets, without hesitation or disruption. Like everything that preceded it, it’s a testament to Le Salon’s pursuit of precision and quiet excellence. –Candice Chemel

→ Le Chambard (Kaysersberg, France) • 9-13 rue du Général de Gaulle • Book.

GETAWAYS LINKS: The return of France’s train of marvels, from the Côte d’Azur to Southern French Alps • An ivy-coated water mill hits the market in Vexin, about an hour from Paris • First look at remade St Clement, London’s zestiest new hotel, soft-opening next month • New off-grid stay in Scotland, at a farm where kids can run wild.

ASK FOUND

Today, three PROMPTS for which we seek your immediate attention

• Who’s your favorite Parisian florist?

• What’s your go-to spot for jewelry repair?

• Oyster Week is in the books. What should FOUND’s next theme week be?

Got answers or more questions? Hit reply or email found@foundparis.com.

GOODS & SERVICES • The Nines

Ice cream, new wave

The Nines are FOUND’s distilled lists of the best in Paris and surrounds. Paid subscribers can access the complete Nines archive.

• JJ Hings (10th arr, above), canal-side ice cream made w/ seasonal fruit and daily fresh cones, owner Julia trained as a pastry chef at Ten Belles

Read more

Read more

At the entrance to Maison Ailhon, located in a characterful village in Ardèche, you’re immediately welcomed by a beautiful zinc counter. To the left, a round table sits between a bookshelf carved into the fireplace and a delicate still life painting by Max Osoki. The kitchen faces you, open, benefiting from the generous ceiling height of this stone house.

Read more